Each meal at Shantaa was like
dining in a church of worshipping
seafoodies. Every dish had been
caught that day, if not that hour,
and was served alongside locally
harvested greens prepared to
Michelin Star standards.
Shantaa in Hindi means tranquility,
but the terms oasis, nirvana, nectar,
and divine splendor equally describe
Shantaa. My expectations had
already been surpassed. Next
stop: Bann Makok.
Bann Makok is about 30 minutes
away from Shantaa by speedboat and
tucked up a languid canal on Koh Kut.
Even before stepping off the boat
I could tell this would be a very
different experience. Bann Makok is
built on low wooden poled platforms
above the water and nestled into
a bank of mangrove trees. Eight
guestrooms connect via wooden
paths. Several have outdoor terraces.
All have outdoor showers. The décor
is colorful and funky with a Dwell
Magazine-worthy quirky aesthetic.
Bann Makok had been described to
me as a place where Thais go to get
away (and it is in fact known as “The
Getaway”). The food was wonderful
– still very sea-inspired, but with
more curries and authentic dishes to
be expected of the region. I was still
hovering in foodie heaven, upon
a particularly Thai cloud.
Every meal at Bann Makok was
served on a two-tiered deck
overlooking the canal. Just off that
very deck is where I also had the
most magical swim of my life. Except
for the deck lights, once the sun
goes down the area is pitch black
with a sea of stars overhead. One
night I asked the manager to shut off
all the deck lights. I climbed down
the dock’s wooden ladder and slipped
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