Travel
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happiness seems to float in the air.
However, tourists just remain in the
streets (as it is impolite to crash a
party) and enjoy the festival drink
of Minorcan-made gin and lemonade.
The libation is sold in small plastic
cups all around town. Music sweeps
through the air and adds to the
celebration mayhem.
ention you’re going to the
Balearic Islands, and you
might get a quizzical look.
More likely, the four islands
will be recognized by their
individual names: Mallorca, Ibiza,
Minorca and the least well known,
Formentera. They lie off the coast
of Spain in the western
Mediterranean Sea between the
mainland and Africa. Catalan and
Spanish are the official languages,
but many locals understand English.
The Balearics rank as favorite
vacations spots for Spaniards and
other Europeans. Many tourists from
the UK visit annually, but relatively
few Americans. The easiest U.S.
gateway is through Madrid, and then
you can hop a short flight to the
islands.
My itinerary began with Ibiza, known
as the white island and for its
nightclubs. I took a day-trip to
under-developed Formentera via
ferry. Later, I caught a short flight
to Majorca, a fabulous island with
great diversity and finally flew to
Minorca, just in time to attend the
Festes de Sant Joan or Festival of
St. John. I landed in Mahon, the
current capital city and traveled
by minivan toward Ciutadella on
the western end, the ancient capital
and home of the Festival.
The horse-centric event begins on
the Sunday preceding June 24, the
day honoring St. John the Baptist
and coincides with the summer
solstice. That day is known as Sheep
Sunday. The event features a robust
young man, carefully chosen for the
great honor, who portrays the Homo
des Be or Sheep Man. He wears a
sheepskin, a head-dress bearing a
cross and walks barefoot with red
crosses painted on his hands and
feet. He carries a docile, pampered
year-old ram around his shoulders -all day. (Apparently the sheep is kept
awake at a party throughout the
night, and, therefore, the animal
sleeps through most of the
ceremonies.) The Sheep Man is lead
by the Festival Noble (a wealthy man
of the town) and Committee of
horsemen to begin the events.
The entire festival follows rituals
that have been in place for hundreds
of years. A week after Sheep Sunday,
the Committee (nobleman, priest and
flag bearers), followed by chosen
horsemen, assemble at Town Hall
square. The dark-haired riders wear
black tuxedos with tails, black riding
pants, white shirts, black bow ties
and hats. Most are farmers but they
look elegant; many were Antonio
Banderas- handsome. The horses,
too, are gussied up for the occasion
with decorative stars on their
foreheads that contain small circular
mirrors. My guide told me it was
good luck to see yourself reflected
in the mirror.
Once assembled, the group makes
three tours of the square. At the
stroke of 6 p.m. the procession
proceeds toward Sant Joan de Missa,
a country church on the outskirts
of town, about an hour’s ride away.
Meanwhile local residents and their
guests drive to the church and picnic
on homemade goodies. Minorca is
renown for its excellent cheeses and
pastries. By 6:30 p.m., hundreds have
arrived and line the road leading to
the church entrance. At 7 p.m., the
hand-pulled bells start clanging and
continue to ring as some 150 horses
and riders solemnly prance, one by
one, down the lane. They stop at the
church entrance where each receives
a blessing from the Bishop. The
church priest is the last rider in
the pageant, always preceded by
a town noble in more formal attire.
The riders leave their horses with
assistants who water, feed and clean
them while they enter the church f