CHEF MAVRO
is Five Diamond
HAWAII REGIONAL CUISINE
by Marc d’Entremont
”I‘m not a French chef,” says Marseilles born George Mavrothalassitis, “I’m a Frenchman who’s a chef.” This is not self modesty
but a succinct definition of what has made his Honolulu venue, Chef Mavro, one of only two Mobil Five Diamond
restaurants in the state of Hawaii. As a founding chef of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, it is not a stretch for chef
Mavrothalassitis to create menus influenced by Hawaii’s pan Asian products and his own eclectic imagination.
Growing up in the ancient Mediterranean port of Marseilles, with a Greek father and an Italian mother, meant that a
multicultural population and the freshest of ingredients were taken for granted. His grandfather had a farm in Provence
where he’d spend much summer time in his young years. This had a great influence on his decision to become a chef, but
parental persuasion diverted George’s attention to a university degree in engineering. After a half dozen successful years
as a mechanical engineer he couldn’t kick the urge and started working in restaurants.
A chef of nouvelle cuisine, never trained in French classical cooking, George’s style was towards small-portioned dishes,
light in texture yet complex in flavor, no roux, maybe a seasoned foam, perhaps a little stock as sauce. “It was molecular
gastronomy before the term became something new.” Arriving in Los Angeles in the early 1980s, George discovered
patrons uninterested in nouvelle cuisine. A young Wolfgang Puck advised George to adapt to American tastes. Chef Puck
was then working on his soon-to-be famous line of pizzas.
George says that a stint in Denver exposed him to American tastes and to people who enjoyed an inventive style. Accepting
a position as chef of Le Mer at the luxurious Halekulani Hotel in Waikiki,
chef Mavrothalassitis relocated to Honolulu in 1988. He
quickly saw the similarities between Holnolulu
and Marseilles – multicultural mix, climate,
meats, produce, seafood and fish.
25
FEBRUARY 2014 • LUXE BEAT MAGAZINE
“I‘m not a
French chef,
I’m a
Frenchman
who’s a
chef.”
CHEF MAVRO,
1969 S KING ST,
HONOLULU, HI,
(808) 944-4714