Leah Travels
France
December
I
By Leah Walker
n the Loire-Atlantique
department, on the cusp of
Brittany, is Domaine de La
Bretesche. This 15th century
château-turned-resort is on the
outskirts of Missillac, near Brière
Regional Natural Park. As a Relais &
Château property owned by Bessé
Signature, Domaine de La Bretesche
is a welcomed escape in the French
countryside.
and its lake.
The massive estate has many
outbuildings that have been repurposed, yet still retain their
original charm. The horse stable is
now the bar, complete with the
original stalls, as well as marble feed
and water troughs. The former
washing house is now a place for
meetings and conventions. Domaine
de La Bretesche is a step back in
time with every modern luxury—an
18-hole golf course designed by
Henry Cotton, indoor and outdoor
pools and the Cour Carrée spa, which
features the first infrared sauna in
France.
Paris is magical almost any time of
the year, but there is something very
special about the Christmas season;
the City of Light is even brighter.
The Champs-Élysées, Place Vendôme
and Rue Saint-Honoré are dripping
with lights, as are neighborhoods
such as Montmartre, the Marais and
Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Along
Boulevard Haussmann, the window
displays at Printemps and Galeries
Lafayette are always spectacular,
but also worth a visit is the massive
tree inside Galeries Lafayette.
Awarded one star by Michelin, Le
Montaigu is a gourmet delight,
offering dishes made with local
ingredients and seafood from the
nearby sea. The dining room is
casually elegant and overlooks the
historical Chateau de la Bretesche
8
Rooms, suites and villas have been
refurbished using an array of fine
fabrics and finishings in both
traditional and contemporary style.
With its hospitable staff, Domaine
de La Bretesche is a tranquil retreat
worth the trip. Domaine de La
Bretesche, 44780 Missillac
Christmas in Paris
One of the many Christmas markets
is found from Place de la Concorde
to Rond-point des Champs-Élysées.
The rows of wooden chalets sell
everything from food to arts and
crafts. Along the city’s Historical
Axis in Place de la Concorde is La
Grande Roue. As part of the
Christmas landscape since 2000, the
giant Ferris wheel offers a marvelous
view of the city, especially during
the Golden Hour. Stop by NotreDame, Madeleine and Sacré-Coeur to
see the nativity scenes. They change
each year, ranging from
contemporary to traditional.
Meander this Market
If you think Paris is the capital of
cuisine in France then you’d be
wrong. That title goes to Lyon, as
any good Parisian will admit. With
over a dozen Michelin-starred
restaurants and an all-star roster of
chefs, Lyon has cemented its place in
French food lore. Named after one of
its favorite sons, Les Halles de Lyon
Paul Bocuse is a temple to Lyonaese
food.
Created in 1971, this indoor market
is home to over fifty stalls selling a
variety of regional culinary delights.
Wander the aisles and feast your
eyes on the selection of freshly
baked breads, meats, cheeses and
seafood. Small restaurants are
scattered about, and there’s plenty
of seating to sample your purchases
if you can’t wait. The market is a
gathering place for visitors and
locals alike. In fact, you might just
see chef Paul Bocuse chatting with
his vendors. www.halles-de-lyonpaulbocuse.com
Sip on This
Along Paris’ bustling Rue de Rivoli,
across from the Tuileries Garden, is
Hôtel Le Meurice. As one of the
city’s Palace Hotels, Le Meurice is
just as elegant and exquisite as you’d
imagine. Of course, the beauty also
extends to the hotel’s food. Beyond
the three-star Michelin restaurant
by Alain Ducasse, Le Meurice has an
exceptional tea time.
Served in Le Dalí, a space designed
by Philippe Starck and named after
one of the hotel’s most famous
former guests, tea time at Le
Meurice is more than just tea. It’s an
event. Beneath the massive canvas
painted by Arna Starck is where the
pastry chef, Cédric Grolet,
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