Put a Pin in it
By Debbie Stone
T
o say that Carmel-by-the-Sea
is dog-friendly is an
understatement. The famed
California central coast
town, rated the #1 Dog
Friendly Town in America, welcomes
man’s best friend with open arms.
Pet owners and their canines can
dine together al fresco on many of
the local restaurants’ patios, and
numerous stores have water bowls
outside their doors, making it
convenient to satisfy Fido’s thirst as
you stroll the streets. Snacks are
also readily on hand as shopkeepers
happily dispense doggy treats to
well behaved canines. At Carmel
Beach, you and your pup have more
than enough space to roam, sans
leash. Come nighttime, caninefriendly accommodations abound
among the forty plus boutique inns,
B&Bs and distinctive hotels. At the
Cypress Inn, for example, which is
partly owned by ardent animal lover/
actress Doris Day, pet owners can
bring their furry pals into their hotel
rooms, enjoy happy or “yappy” hour,
doggy turn-downs and even high tea
together in the lobby. It’s a veritable
who’s who of breeds, sizes and
personalities, and surprisingly
everyone gets along – four-legged
26
creatures as well as two!
adorn most houses.
You’ll find plenty to do in this
world-renowned destination, with or
without Fido at your side. Though
only one square mile, tiny Carmel-bythe-Sea has evolved into quite the
hot spot with big-city offerings of
art, theater, music and dining. The
best way to explore the community
is to abandon your car and
experience it on foot. You’ll probably
get lost once or twice, but that’s
half the fun, plus it’ll help you
discover some of the town’s quirky
traits.
You might also observe there aren’t
any chain restaurants or chain stores
in town. And if you plan to wear high
heels that are more than two inches
in height or with a base of less than
one square inch, city law requires
you to get a permit from City Hall.
This rule, however, is not enforced
by local police, but is on the books
due to the uneven, cobbled surface
of the pavement and perhaps as
protection against possible lawsuits.
Up until the late 1980s, there was
even a prohibition against selling and
eating ice cream on public streets.
Thank one-time mayor Clint
Eastwood for overturning this
unpopular ordinance. Though he no
longer serves in this political
capacity, the veteran actor/director/
producer still maintains a presence in
the area as one of the owners of the
Carmel Mission Ranch Hotel &
Restaurant.
As you walk around this picturesque
enclave, you’ll note an absence of
addresses, parking meters or
streetlights, as well as sidewalks
outside of the downtown commercial
area. Blame it on Carmel’s founding
fathers, who nixed the practice of
house-to-house mail delivery, not
wanting to see their village become
urbanized. To this day, residents
must get their mail from post office
boxes at the local post office. As for
getting directions, visitors receive
cross streets and descriptive
landmarks or they’re told to look for
the often legendary names that
Wandering through town, you’ll
quickly realize that Carmel-by-theSea doesn’t appear to be laid out in
an organized manner. It’s a rabbit
warren with its meandering
passageways and hidden courtyards
– 42 in total. This, too, was
purposely done by design nearly a
century ago. The intent of
developers James Franklin Devendorf
and Frank H. Powers was to create a
bohemian village - a retreat for
artists, writers and professors –
that was truly pedestrian friendly.
Supposedly, only a few blocks in the
one-mile square area are without
passageways connecting one street
to another midway. There are even
cutaways in Ocean Avenue, the
town’s “main drag,” allowing people
to pass through the planted center
divide.
Each of the passageways and
courtyards have their own distinct
personality and special flair, adorned
by wrought-iron railings, lanterns,
intricate woodwork and Spanish
tiles. Discovering these nooks and
crannies is akin to being on a
treasure hunt, where pleasurable
surprises await in the form of
eclectic shops, colorful galleries and
intimate