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peaks of majestic mountains. I had
hoped for some shots of the (sortof) promised bears – and I was too
slow to catch bald eagles and
ospreys in flight. But, after all,
a journey like this should be lived
in the moment and not only through
the lens of a camera.
Back in the GoldLeaf car,
the attendants were serving up
route information with generous
interludes of quizzes, jokes and
cruise-director-type patter. Since
cocktails and wine were also
generously served, passengers
were inclined to appreciate
both travelogue and patter.
We were alerted when we were
about to reach the two famous
Spiral Tunnels, which were built in
1907. After the train passed Wapta
Lake, it entered the first of the
tunnels and actually executed a
spiral, then emerged down the
mountainside, facing the opposite
way. Later, the train descended into
the Lower Spiral Tunnel and traveled
even further downward. Wacky as
this part of the route seems, the
tunnels replaced the steep and very
vodka, Clamato, hot sauce and
Worcestershire sauce. Though the
zeal for photography had slowed
somewhat, the photogenic scenery
still rolled by: the graceful Stoney
Creek Bridge; the Last Spike that
completed the Canadian Pacific
Railway, marked by a monument and
small museum; “Osprey Alley,” where
birds nest atop telegraph poles and
trees; and picturesque houseboats
on Shuswap Lake. (The town of
Sicamous, on the lake, is said
to be the “Houseboat Capital
of the World.”)
dangerous “Big Hill” and were
considered a marvel of engineering
at the time.
Traveling through Kicking Horse
Canyon, we followed the Kicking
Horse River for long miles, passing
scenic bridges and tunnels. The
landscape shifted as we approached
the Columbia River and traveled
through the pine-rich valley known
as the Rocky Mountain Trench.
Lunch provided another relaxing
interlude in the dining car, where
smiling servers offered wine
(including Rocky Mountaineer’s own
label Sumoc Ridge merlot) beer and
soft drinks along with a meal of soup
or salad and a choice of entrées:
Wild BC Sockeye Salmon; Alberta
Pork Tenderloin; Wild Mushroom
Crusted Chicken Breast; Braised
Alberta Beef Short Ribs; Northwest
Spot Prawn Bouillabaise. Desserts
featured chocolate, ice cream and
baked treats with coffee or tea.
We arrived in Kamloops after
traveling 309 miles and were
transported to a modest but
comfortable hotel. Though an
option for food and entertainment
was available, most of us chose
showers and sleep.
Early the following morning, motor
coaches transferred us (luggage
traveled separately) back to the
train, where breakfast awaited. Soon
after departure, the Mountaineer
traveled into First Nation territory,
and our attendants pointed out
a small church that was said to be
used in Clint Eastwood’s film, The
Unforgiven. A bald eagle alert was
sounded near Kamloops Lake, and
once again, cameras came out. Soon
the landscape turned arid and
inhospitable as our train moved
toward the black lava cliff known
as “Black Canyon,” then gave way
to rocky terrain and stands of pine
trees. Somewhat scary was the
section of track that passed under a
soaring cliff wall known as “Avalanche
Alley,” where, yes, we saw avalanche
protection sheds, a reminder of how
easily disaster could strike.
The afternoon passed sweetly, with
convivial conversation, tasty snacks
and cocktails. I discovered the
piquant Caesar, the Canadian version
of the Bloody Mary, made with
The next dramatic sight came almost
a couple of hours later, when we
reached Hell’s Gate, so named by
Service in the
dining room is
cheerful and
attentive
11
early explorers who likened this
narrow and raging torrent of the
Fraser River to the gates of Hell.
According to one estimate, the
water is forced through here at the
rate of two million gallons a minute,
more than the water flow on the
Canadian side of the Niagara Falls.
We traveled on, surrounded by farms
scattered along a peaceful valley.
Close to Vancouver, the train slowed,
crossed the Fraser River on a long
steel bridge, took us through the
city suburbs – and finally to the
Rocky Mountaineer terminal.
Our 594-mile odyssey ended amid
a flurry of good-byes and thanks
and hugs given and received by the
train staff. It had been a memorable
experience, an opportunity to see
the great Canadian Rockies in
comfort and a reminder of how
civilized and pleasant train travel
once was – and could (wishful
thinking) be again.
Travel Information: The Rocky
Mountaineer offers regular scheduled
departures along several routes
between April and October. In
addition to the GoldLeaf service
described here, two other classes
are available. SilverLeaf passengers
ride in a single-level glass-domed
car and are served meals (including
hot entrées) at their seats. RedLeaf
passengers have reclining seats in
a single-level car and are served
chilled breakfast and luncheon
selections at their seats. An
overnight journey between
Banff and Vancouver costs
about $2,000, GoldLeaf;
$1,600, Silver; $1,100, Red.
For more information, visit
rockymountaineer.com or call
1-877-460-3200 (toll free USA
and Canada).