FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE + LEISURE
BRENNAN ’ S OF HOUSTON
3300 Smith St . | 713.522.9711 | www . brennanshouston . com Mon – Fri , 11am – 2pm
The Houston offshoot of the New Orleans mainstay approaches lunch in a unique way . The main dining room still requires a jacket for lunch . However , it is at the bar where the work gets done . Why ? Not only do you get to order from Chef Danny ’ s extensive menu , you also can get $ 0.25 martinis . Yes . A quarter . And with the generous pour , you do not have to feel like you are cheating the expense account . You can also get Chef Danny ’ s $ 20 pairings of soup and an entrée year-round . It ’ s an economic way to dine in luxury .
For lunch , I went with the Soup Trio and Cajun Cobb Salad . The trio features the turtle soup , the duck gumbo and the soup of the day ( squash with housesmoked bacon ). A very impressive way to sample them all . The Cajun Cobb is a grilled shrimp salad . Most people who know me would be in shock that I ordered a salad . ( Vegetables are usually what food eats .) However , when combined with blue cheese , croutons , house-smoked bacon and lump crab , you cannot go wrong . Prepared tableside , it is even more impressive .
Finishing with Bananas Foster was a bit over the top . In a good way . Again , tableside preparation . It is not only fun to watch , it is a great ending to a fantastic meal .
Grab some pralines on the way out . You won ’ t need them . You will want them .
OVERALL , it was the sleeper ( based on the martini price alone ). I highly recommend it .
DAMIAN ’ S CUCINA ITALIANA
3011 Smith St . | 713.522.0439 | www . damians . com Mon – Fri , 11am – 2pm
If you have dined at Italian or Cajun restaurants in Houston , you have been served by the Mandola family . The family currently operates more than 20 different restaurants , including Vincent ’ s , Tony Mandola ’ s , Ragin ’ Cajun and the ever popular Carrabba ’ s .
In 1984 , Damian and his cousin Frankie B . Mandola opened Damian ’ s , a high-end Italian restaurant at the edge of Midtown . Johnny B . Mandola , GM and son of the recently deceased Frankie B ., currently oversees the operation .
Johnny met us at door and escorted us back to the late , iconic Milo Hamilton ’ s table , still highly coveted . From there , you see the whole restaurant and hold court in style .
After looking over the menu , I went with the classics : Tomato Caprese and Shrimp Damian . The heirloom tomatoes were fresh and were well complemented by the basil and balsamic . The Shrimp Damian , sautéed in a thick butter , lemon and garlic sauce , was as good as ever . The sauce had a strong , yet not overpowering , garlic bite .
For a contrast , my dining partner went with the specials : the lobster bisque as a starter and grilled salmon stuffed with crab over asparagus with a light beurre blanc . The lobster bisque was rich and creamy without being too heavy . However , I was more jealous of the salmon . The beurre blanc didn ’ t overpower the flavors of the salmon or lump crab .
With our meal , we allowed Johnny to pair our foods . Italian food and wines are an exception to the white with fish and red with meat . The Super Tuscan had an excellent balance of tannins and fruit .
BASED on our experience with Damian ’ s , I have no doubt that Frankie B . is smiling down from Heaven and loving what his son is doing .
VIC & ANTHONY ’ S STEAKHOUSE
1510 Texas Ave . | 713.228.1111 | www . vicandanthonys . com Mon – Thurs , 11am – 10pm | Fri 11am – 11pm
The jewel of the Tilman Ferttita ’ s Landry ’ s restaurant empire has catered to businessmen in Houston for more than 13 years . The dining room is perfectly laid out with tables and plush leather booths , letting the guests negotiate without worrying about being overheard .
With so many options on the menu , we left our dining experience to Chef Michael O ’ Connor . We made the right decision .
The opening round included three of the most popular appetizers : tuna poke , jumbo lump crab cake and maple-glazed quail . V & A ’ s poke would please any Maui native . The light soy vinaigrette provided enough acidity to let the tuna truly shine . The jumbo lump crab cake is the most popular appetizer on the menu , and for good reason . Four ounces of lump crab meat with minimal binder is topped with an extra ounce of crab . Why an extra ounce ? Because they can .
My favorite was the maple-glazed quail . The quail were the perfect size , plump and juicy . The glaze had a hint of chipotle pepper balancing the sweet maple flavor . They crisped up well without too much char .
The soup and salad course came next , featuring slightly different versions of the Caprese and lobster bisque we enjoyed at Damian ’ s . The multicolored heirlooms were a wedge cut ; the mozzarella handpulled in the back of the restaurant were a cloverleaf pattern . The bisque had good-sized pieces of lobster and enough sherry . I gave the edge to V & A on the salad , and bisque slightly to Damian ’ s .
The final course was almost overwhelming : Akaushi Skirt Steak and the Bone- In Filet Mignon . The marinated meat is cooked sous vide at 135 ° for five hours until medium rare and finished under the broiler . Accompanied by duck fat fried potatoes , a sunny-side up egg and chimichurri , it was as beautiful as it was flavorful .
Wine . It is impossible to come to V & A and not be impressed with the wine list . I left the choice to our waiter . Mark provided us with a crisp unoaked Chardonnay and a full-bodied Cabernet for the meat . They worked well . Very well .
OVERALL , V & A may be the ultimate destination for a Power Lunch in Houston . I know I will be back . october 16 | L O C A L 21