LOCAL Houston | The City Guide October 2016 | Page 18

DINE WRITE
GRACIOUS GRACE AT STATE OF GRACE
By Janice Schindeler | Photography by Sarah Miller

Hush Puppies

IMAGINE A BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY, A VINTAGE AUSTRIAN HUNTING LODGE, THE FADED ELEGANCE OF HAVANA AND
SOME REMARKABLE COMMON SENSE. This odd mixture defines the gracious State of Grace. Walls of antlers, a cozy dining
room with exquisite sound-soaking carpet, a moody, romantic bar which by day provides views of a massive oak tree through its trio
of windows and by night a peek of the stars. And then … then there is the stunning semi-circular brass oyster bar with its curved bare
brick walls crosshatched with gold stencil. The juxtaposition of rough brick, the elegance of the gold paint – genius. It is an interior
without flaw, whimsical, humorous and delightfully contradictory, on the narrow edge of stylishly kooky.
The restaurant feels intimate, masquerading the fact that 180 seats are
available, which includes eight lucky stools at the chef’s counter (where, for
the adventurous eater, a prix fixe seven course, chef-driven dinner awaits).
Graduate of the CIA, transplanted Californian, Executive Chef Bobby Matos’
menu extends the theme of kooky contradictions, dancing with international
flavors, getting down with nostalgia.

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The brined and pan-roasted chicken, rich with butter basting, sits atop
delicate potato puree – the briny, salty caper-berry garnish snapping the
plate together – stirs memories of Sunday dinners. The Mississippi Hot
Tamales, spicy thick rolls of highly seasoned ground beef dusted with
cornmeal (no masa here) meant to be spread onto the housemade saltines
and topped with a splash of respectable hot sauce, were a revelation to me
but proved a taste of home to others.