LOCAL Houston | The City Guide May 2018 | Page 20

FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE+LEISURE DINE WRITE LOVE LOVE LOVE NIGHT HERON LANDS IN MONTROSE By Janice Schindeler Photography by Julie Soefer Fried Curry Spiced Potatoes 03.5.2018 2:42pm Smoked Cheddar Burger FROM THE STYLIZED LOGO TO THE LAST SPOONFUL OF THE TROPICAL RUM COCONUT PANNA COTTA THAT CHEF JACOB PATE WHIPPED UP IMPROMPTU WHILE I WAS LICKING MY BOWL OF JASMINE RICE CONGEE, EVERYTHING ABOUT THE SUCCESSFUL AGRICOLE’S MONTROSE-AREA VENTURE IS LOVABLE. THE NAME NIGHT HERON – AFTER THE BIG BIRDS THAT ROOST IN THE BROAD OAKS OF NEARBY NORTH AND SOUTH BOULEVARD – LOVE. LOCALS REFERENCE THIS NEIGHBORHOOD SPOT AS THE NEST – LOVE. FROTHY EGG WHITE, TARRAGON, SOTOL BLANCO MARGARITAS – OH, So much love comes as no surprise. The wizards of Agricole Hospitality and the creators of Night Heron, Ryan Pera and Morgan Weber, stole my heart years ago with the cozy, acclaimed Coltivare. This dynamic duo also conceived the successful Revival Market and the clever and ever-popular Eight Row Flint. They have that magic touch. In all their establishments, they create a concept, study history, develop an environment, hire good people, cook dynamite food, work like hell and whip up mighty fine cocktails – without ever breaking a visible sweat. Cool and calm, talented and totally dedicated to hospitality excellence, local sources and sustainability. And simple common sense. No valet parking at Night Heron. (Or Revival or Coltivare or Eight Row Flint, for that matter.) And these trademark trends continue on at Night Heron where Chef Jacob Pate (formerly of Coltivare, most recently from Nobie’s) presents a small menu with worldwide appeal. Snack foods like the smashed an d crispy fried Massaman Curry Potatoes with the most wondrous housemade ketchup (from the get-go, ask for an extra ramekin or two of the ketchup). Or the creamy smoked cheese dip with a combo of tasty fried wonton skin crackers and little rings of taralli (texture-wise think Italian bread sticks). If sharing the cheese dip, be sure to nab some of those cipollini onions before your tablemates devour them all. The perfect cocktail accompaniments are the Turmeric Chicken Frites – slightly tangy from a buttermilk marinade; crispy, crusty exterior; moist, succulent chicken breast interior – excellent finger food. Tequila, beet, carrot, grapefruit, lime In all their establishments, they create a concept, study history, develop an environment, hire good people, cook dynamite food, work like hell and whip up mighty fine cocktails – without ever breaking a visible sweat. YEAH – LOVE. 20 L O C A L | 5 . 2018 5 . 2018 | L O C A L 21