FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE + LEISURE
RUBEN ORTEGA
EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF H TOWN RESTAURANT GROUP – HUGO ’ S , CARACOL , BACKSTREET CAFE AND XOCHI
Ruben Ortega was raised in Mexico City and Puebla , Mexico , and learned his love of cooking and baking from his aunt , who taught him how to knead dough by hand in a hollow tree trunk . At age 17 , Ruben left Mexico for the United States , landing in California , and eventually joined his older brother Hugo in Texas . A 1991 graduate of the Culinary Arts Program at Houston Community College , Ruben won first-place honors in 1993 at the Texas Culinary Federation ’ s statewide contest . Ruben ’ s desserts are known for their artistry as well as flavor , and his skills go beyond desserts to the savory side of the menu . He was named Pastry Chef of the Year in 2003 and 2010 at Houston Culinary Awards , and has worked with brother Hugo and sister-in-law Tracy on two cookbooks : Hugo Ortega ’ s Street Food of Mexico ( 2012 ) and Backstreet Kitchen : Seasonal Recipes from Our Neighborhood Cafe ( 2013 ).
How ’ d you learn to cook ? From my mother and grandmother , and then at the Houston Community College Culinary Arts program .
What ’ s the first recipe you ever mastered ? How to make pasta and Sachertorte … but I can ’ t remember which was first . Ha !
What ingredient can you not live without in the kitchen and why ? Salt , and chocolate in any form . I love chocolate ; it is my favorite ingredient .
What utensil can you not live without ? My knives , microplane and rubber spatula – you have to have one !
Favorite affordable wine ? Prosecco ! Villa Sandi and Wild Horse Chardonnay .
Favorite place for dessert ? I don ’ t have any one in particular , but my son Mateo loves The Chocolate Bar !
Is there a food you won ’ t eat ? Shark .
What is your comfort food ? Classic Italian , Mexican and BBQ .
What would be your last meal ? My mother ’ s chiles rellenos and my Grandma Delia ’ s mole .
What do you see as the next food trend ? Plant-based food , more vegan and vegetarian .
At home , what do you keep on hand to serve drop-in guests ? I don ’ t get a lot of visitors , lol , but I always have Prosecco , if that counts . Ha !
What would people be surprised to find in your home refrigerator ? Carrot cake from Randalls – I love it !
Who are your favorite chef , restaurant and dish ? Chef Hori at Kata Robata – anything he makes is awesome !
Is there a particular food that is underappreciated ? And what would you do to help its reputation ? Plant-based foods , vegan and vegetarian dishes . We don ’ t have that many places in Houston that focus on plant-based dishes fully . One day , we should have at least two vegan restaurants for every 10 steakhouses . Maybe I will open a vegan restaurant one day and help start the movement !
Photography by Max Burkhalter
may 17 | LOCAL 27