XOCHI ( that ’ s , so-chee ) opened the week before Super Bowl LI ( Brady ’ s a killer !) but you sure wouldn ’ t know it . While most restaurateurs would shy away from opening the week your city hosts the Super Bowl , when you already run three of the city ’ s top restaurants ( Hugo ’ s , Caracol and Backstreet Cafe ), this isn ’ t daunting to you at all . You just keep on doing what you already do so well . Running 100 from the day it opened , the new upscale restaurant specializing in the culinary and indigenous richness of one Mexican state , Oaxaca , Xochi is located on the ground floor in the brand new Marriott Marquis , towering over the north side of Discovery Green . Both the hotel and the restaurant space look fantastic . The clean , modern space shows off traditional Mexican style with an entire wall of folk art ( alebrijes ), lots of natural light from the Discovery Green side windows , rope , decorative tiles and custom tables and seating . The food and drinks , while superb , are as eloquent as you would also expect from this crew of seasoned chef / sommelier / staff . Some amazing flavors come from abnormal ( to us ) ingredients . So , let them guide you through the menu , and don ’ t be afraid to try something new .
While queso isn ’ t “ new ,” this housemade , fresh and creamy cotija queso , with its salty , fatty housemade chicharrones , makes one unique “ queso .” Oh , and yes , you were right : Those are bugs in the picture . Gusanos ( larva ), chicatanas ( flying ants ) and chapulines ( grasshopper ), as a matter of fact . Nope , NOT KIDDING . Also , not kidding that you should absolutely order this ; it ’ s authentic , and you won ’ t even know they are bugs . Also , it ’ s really bueno . You may consider this queso a dare – it totally could be – but it ’ s one you should take . Anddddd , to help , we give you not just one but two options to make that perfect pair . Take the ease-on-in , salty and sweet-ish route , via the COTES DE TABLAS BLANC , a unique example of a vineyard with a certified sustainable approach to its land , resulting in wine done right . This choice for the pair gives you a nice , easygoing reward for going out on a limb with us . The wine , hedonistic , racy , and floral , is just a tad sweet yanging the rich and salty queso . But say you ’ re really trying to embrace the Oaxacan culture , and you ’ re a real daredevil . In that case , the “ go big “ option is this REY CAMPERO JABALIL . Harvested at high altitudes , this is one high octane ( alcohol ) mezcal . It ’ s a damn shame to call it “ smokey ,” so instead look for the herbal and tobacco leaf notes within the heat and enjoy the heck out of it . We assume that the locals in the town of a little under 100 where Rey Camparo is farmed enjoy the heck out of it , especially when paired with the queso , too . Go ahead , pick your poison .
By Mike Cook Photography by Kennon Evett
XOCHI The Flavors of Oaxaca | 1777 Walker , Suite A | Houston , TX 77010 713.400.3330 | www . xochihouston . com march 17 | LOCAL 25