FOOD
A MATTER OF TASTE TACODELI ’ S DOÑA SAUCE SIZZLES
Since Austin transplant TACODELI set up shop at 1902 Washington Ave . in April , they ’ ve done a heated business at breakfast and lunch ( they close at 3pm ) – and one of the hottest things on the menu is the restaurant ’ s famous Doña Sauce , a creamy jalapeno concoction that takes their tacos to the next level . ( Editor ’ s note : Order the Heather [ grilled queso fresco , organic refried black beans , guacamole , lettuce , tomato ] and the Pollo Fantastico [ shredded chicken , roasted green chile sauce , crema mexicana , green onions ] and thank me later ).
Created by Austin employee Bertha Gonzales in response to a company contest issued by founder Robert Espinosa , the “ Doña “ is a velvety and spicy original salsa that won the competition . After its introduction , the salsa became an immediate hit with Tacodeli customers .
Gonzales joined the Tacodeli team about a month after they opened their first restaurant in Austin in 1999 . A very talented Mexican cook , she ran a taco truck in her native Veracruz , Mexico , before moving to the US . The team had already started calling Gonzales “ Doña ,” a title of respect ; the salsa affirmed the title .
Today , Doña Bertha still works at the original restaurant and is still very much a linchpin of the Tacodeli culture on the culinary side and an integral member of Tacodeli ’ s close-knit community . Soon the whole country will know : three of Tacodeli ’ s salsas , including the Doña , just entered WHOLE FOODS stores .
That ’ s hot .
By Tim Moloney Photography by Harry Dearing
18 LOCAL | june 17