LOCAL Houston | The City Guide July 2017 | Page 22

“We get grief
about the crust.
It’s not New
York, Chicago
or Detroit style.
This is true
Napoletano
style.”
Ricotta
“A lot of times, vegetables are an afterthought – like ‘ok, we gotta do
something vegetarian – let’s roast a portobello,’” chuckles Jones. “We did
not want to get too crazy but we wanted to have some well-thought-out,
tasty vegetables on the menu. Remember that grated carrot mess that
everyone’s Aunt Mabel made? We did a contemporary riff on it.”
And it is this simple, innovative, fresh salad that actually defines Jones’
effect on the Cane Rosso menu. Wide, shaved planks of carrots, with
pickled sultanas, hints of orange, cumin and cinnamon – a southern
favorite reconstructed with hints of North Africa. A celebration of the
vegetables for which Italian cooking is famous proves Jones is not just a
pretty face, but a thinking, informed and talented chef.
Also worthy of accolades: the roasted cauliflower with its creamy, dreamy
bagna cauda snapped to tasty attention with an anchovy vinaigrette and
capers. Stunningly delicious.
Wommack adds, “The salads are moderately sized so customers don’t
feel ‘gut bombed.’ They can share a salad and a pizza and still feel good
at the end of the meal.”
Good thing, because the choice is a tough one. In addition to stellar
salads and great pizza, Cane Rosso also does some mighty fine pasta
dishes such as The Coal Miner, a most peppery rip on the traditional
pasta carbonara, and a dish named after the pasta’s cockscomb shape,
Cresta di Gallo, a luscious bowl of roasted chicken, arugula, a trio of
mushrooms, a splash of broth, zest of lemon and a shaving of grana
padano.
And if good, tasty food is not enough to make you happy, the enormous
patio is dog-friendly. Jerrier runs a dog rescue charity (Cane Rosso
Rescue). Translated from Italian, Cane Rosso means red dog.
Go.
CANE ROSSO
THE HEIGHTS: 1835 N. Shepherd Dr. | Houston, TX 77008 | 713.868.0071
MONTROSE: 4306 Yoakum Blvd. | Houston, TX 77006 | 713.337.1155
www.canerosso.com
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