FOOD | ARTS | COMMUNITY | STYLE + LEISURE
Octopus
Coconut Cake
He makes sous-vide octopus magically Southern with a finish on the grill and a glaze of sweet but not too sweet sorghum . And the bowl of lobster ceviche , with its sparkle of fresh mint , the puckery crunch of house-pickled grapes and the brilliance of the fresh coconut leche – heaven .
Holley seems to pickle everything – the kim chee in the pan-Asian / pan-American fish tacos – yup , housemade . The pickled okra ( served with the fresh from the oven and ” we got what we got and when they are all gone they are gone “ Benne seed rolls )? You betcha . And the red pickled grapes in the fennel slaw served with Gulf flounder fillets , lump crabmeat , earthy , meaty Maitake mushrooms ( a . k . a . hen of the woods ), crunchy peanuts , charred tomatoes and the aforementioned slaw ? This dish is a wondrous riot of color , texture and flavors . Yes . He pickled the grapes .
From way down South comes the most decadent of all desserts : one big walloping slice of moist coconut cake with generous layers of deliriously addictive cream cheese icing , spiced pecans and a salted caramel sauce .
Thoughtful perfection , plates that radiate flavor , a menu that reads contemporary – the dishes reflect the experiences of the man . Mark Holley , one who has cooked and created for decades , who once mentored the likes of James Beard regional winner Chris Shepherd and the successful Randy Evans , who loves a challenge , loves food , loves people and honors his roots , will gladly tell you he has outgrown the daily regimen and grind of kitchen life . Holley prefers to be out front mingling with his guests , leaving the grind and stress of production , plate after perfect plate , to his talented , soft-spoken sous chef , Patti Burdette . “ The way the kitchen is designed , I can slip in and cook a little any time I want ,” Holley says .
Holley ' s
But most nights he lives his philosophy : “ A chef / owner who walks the floor and shakes hands with the customers is positive his food is excellent .”
HOLLEY ' S
3201 Louisiana | Houston , TX 77006 | 713.491.2222 | www . holleyshouston . com Mon – Thu , 5:30 – 10pm | Fri – Sat , 5:30 – 11pm | Lunch : Mon – Fri , 11am – 2pm | Brunch : Sunday 11am – 2pm | Happy Hour : Mon – Fri ; 4 – 6pm february 17 | LOCAL 19