I sat up in safe water and watched Guru and
Mad Man walking awkwardly over the sharp
reef. They had opted to venture out over the
spiky reef instead of using the keyhole. My
two waxed and zinced-up mates were just
standing on the edge of the ledge saturated
in all their uneasiness. After several minutes
they just threw the towel in, turned around
and headed back to the sunny beach. Now
I had to grasp the situation, being out in a
sizeable swell, all alone, virgin territory, in
the middle of a huge Indo bay with no mates
to rely on. Ok ... another set rolled through
and peeled perfectly down the point. ‘Fuck
it’, I said to myself, I’m going to take the bull
by the horns. First thing I noticed was how
clean and blue the ocean was compared to
the murky brown water of where we had just
come from.
It didn’t take long for my prayers to be
answered as a solid slab moved towards
LiQUiFY | 129