Big Tom standing up into the next section // Photo Eggy
many natural occurrences that happened on
a daily basis ... and what’s more, solid waves
to greet us. As the sun stuck its head up a
little higher I was able to clearly study the
lineup from the shelter of a bamboo chill out
hut. The tide was high so there was a lot of
water moving around. Guru later commented
that, “This surf spot consistently gets better
a bit later.” I asked what he meant and he
informed me that, “the wind stays offshore
here all morning and with a bit less tide the
waves will get even better. Let’s get some
breakfast then check it again.”
I was keen to get out there immediately but
settled on waiting for my mates, after all I
needed my morning hit of coffee, “Ok then,”
I agreed, “we are the three wise men but
you’re the guru ...”
It’s hard to beat a banana pancake and
kopi susu, a breakfast of champions, and
a favourite of mine and Jack Johnson’s. I
backed it up with a bit of yoga, putting my
Hindu faith into action by flooding my mind
with good thoughts as I thanked the cosmos.
After an hour I’m flexible,
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