LiQUiFY Magazine December 2014 | Page 72

“It was really tidal, and once the tide started to go out you’d be really paddling the whole time, so it was a couple of us guys, we were lucky that we had some Hawaiian boards there. I was lucky enough to be surfing on a 7 footer out there, a 7’2’’ when it was 6 foot and above. I could get into the waves early enough, and all these other guys would paddle out and go ‘well I’ve got me 6’4’’ gun’ and I’d go ‘oh you’re kidding mate’ - so much water movement, it was quite thick as well, it was unreal! against the wall, but it used to get pretty big in there - it was surprising. It was good back then and not many boogieboarders took it on, they’d get sucked out the back. It was pretty much the Southport crew and it was more of a locals spot, like a take off spot, compared with South Straddie. With South Straddie anyone can go there now, and it hasn’t got the culture of a take off spot where it’s very limited to a few heavier locals. It was a pretty iconic wave when you look back at it, I guess it broke for what, about 5 years.” “A few times it was big there and it was pretty dodgy, and we’d be kind of sitting right out in the middle of the seaway channel trying to catch 8 to 10 footers ... the barrels were more And what about now, how are you going with shaping and life as a surfer on the Gold Coast? “Oh yeah you know, it’s fantastic, especially Munga in the slot and hooking it under the lip - back in the 90s the seaway had an oldstyle pecking order. Rarely did you paddle out and just take a wave // Photo Wilba