priority list, this time I was fortunate enough
to be spending my time in the fishing village
of Nusa Lembongan. This place is famed for
surfing and for the incredibly relaxed pace
compared to their neighbours in Bali.
We crossed the Badung Strait and as our
speed boat pulled in I stared up at the
hills surrounding the bay, amazed by the
construction that had taken place since I was
here last. I last laid eyes on Lembongan almost
10 years ago as a grommet and the small village
I once knew was now expanding so much.
Back then, my best buddy Keahi and I spent
a month in Lembongan, surfing Playgrounds
and Lacerations on our longboards. Smelling
the air and seeing the town again brought the
memories flooding back - moments like when
Keahi snapped his favourite board on a bomb
set wave at Lacerations. Chris (Keahi’s Dad)
had his longboard put back together by a local
tradesman - the deal included Chris being
charged a toilet for the deal which perfectly
demonstrated the simplicity of the Lembongan
locals at the time. That same longboard can
still be seen, hanging up in the Playgrounds
Bar.
“Smelling the air and
seeing the town again
brought the memories
flooding back”
Lembongan’s inside wave is aptly named Lacerations,
and it’s seldom sought as a longboard surfer’s ideal
break. Beneath its absolutely perfect design and
shimmering appeal is a razor sharp reef, known to run
along your fins if you don’t quite choose the right line.
Low tide is deadly but nail a few waves, and they can be
the nicest barrels of your life!
After introducing Victoria to the island, to the
deck café and bar, we spent the night downing
frosty beers, cocktails and drowning in the feels
you get when you first arrive in a paradise like
this. With the anticipation and stoke growing
for what the trip was going to deliver, and with
a consistent forecast ahead, I didn’t mind
letting my wallet get a little lighter as the first
afternoon dragged into the night, long after the
beautiful sunset over the water.