COLLECTION REVIEWS
A frican music echoed through the large
Darker hues for Spring started off the show,
with a combination of Johnson’s signature
room, as models emerged, weaving between
ditsy florals and intricately woven raffia. Her
pillars on the sand colored granite tile floor.
use of this material paid homage to the
Johnson is known for her bohemian and
Herero tribe and demonstrated the way a
ethereal style, so watching as model after
material not typically used in fashion can
model emerged in distinctly African-inspired
be integrated into a cohesive collection.
looks with a bohemian twist was a breath of
Paired with Victori an-inspired blouses with
fresh air.
billowing sleeves, the juxtaposition of fabrics
created a sense of strength that at times is
She stayed true to her rustic style, yet
hidden in Johnson’s soft image.
embraced new colors, textures, and
techniques borrowed from the Herero of
As the show continued, the looks became
Namibia and Maasai tribe of Kenya.
more elaborate and technical,validating
Johnson’s extensive research on the
She also drew inspiration from Gee’s Bend,
Herero tribe. Beautifully knitted dresses
an African-American community based
with elaborate African-inspired patterns are
in Alabama, who are known for turning
woven in vibrant red and jet black against
old scraps of fabric into intricate quilts.
pure white backdrops. These patterned looks
Craftsmanship was the theme of this show
had three-dimensional details at the shoulder
and Johnson did not disappoint.
that were a more structured version of
Johnson’s signature ruffles.
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The emboldened knits are paired back
with delicate lacy Victorian tops, effortlessly
weaving together the designer’s trademark
styles and the vibrancy of pre-colonial African
tribes.
Following the intricate knitwear, Johnson
continued her exploration of varied
techniques by incorporating batik-style
patchwork into structured jackets and
blouson tops. Inspired by the isolated
African-American community, Gee’s Bend,
which hails from Alabama, Johnson used an
array of fabrics to patch together swaths of
material.
Quilting can at times appear campy, but
Johnson elevates the technique with
architectural shapes.
While modernity rang through each phase
of the show, the final looks brought the
inspiration of the 19th century Herero
tribe to the 21st century. Pops of bold
blue, red, and yellow hues paired with
metallic lame added a punch of color that
isn’t normally seen from Johnson, but she
managed to combine the colors, textures,
and patterns in a way that still resonated
her name.
A deep, ruffled v-neck gown was to
be expected in her collection, but the
powerful Turmeric hue and gold metallic
overlay showed a depth to her artistry we
have all been waiting for.
We all know Ulla Johnson for her
whimsical designs, but this ingenious
African-inspired collection has lifted her
to a new level, proving the power of
femininity.
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