travel
Mi Tierra Cafe Y Panaderia in San Antonio, Texas.
San Antonio Missions National Historical Park in Texas.
Texas State Capitol building, in Downtown Austin, Texas.
“I think from now on we’ll call you Bang Bang Bailey,” says the friendly receptionist at the Mayan Dude Ranch in
Texas. I’ve been initiated into the Mayan Gang of modern day cowboys and girls, and as the city limits fade with the
last drops of burning red sun, I’m getting to grips with life in the cowboy capital of the world.
T
he likes of John Wayne and JR Ewing may have put
this American Stetson-studded state on the map, but
increased accessibility, thanks to new direct British
Airways flights to Austin from London, has reinvigorated
European interest in Texas. For now, I’ve left the city behind
me, and have driven two hours out of town to Bandera, a
cosmopolitan place characterized by vast fields, big trucks
and motorbikes.
My introduction to cowboy culture is at the OST Restaurant in
Main Street. A whole room in this eatery is dedicated to John
Wayne, and staff are happy to share friendly banter about
‘The Duke’ as I fill my cowboy boots with glorious enchilada.
But my opportunity to meet a modern day cowboy comes with
a visit to the Mayan Dude Ranch, where tourists can saddle up
with stirrups and spurs and live ranch life for a few days.
My education begins with a two-hour ride through the dusty
grounds; the soil is parched and no-one can really recall when
it last rained. It felt almost spiritual as I travelled horseback with
my guide through the terrain that almost seemed familiar.
Returning to the corral after bidding my horse, a very
patient Mr Pepsi, farewell, we enjoy a hot, competitive and
laugh-out-loud archery lesson from the appropriately named
ex-professional archer, David Archer. Had he changed his name
to suit, I thought.
I rarely manage to hit my target but David assures me
there’s still time yet to hone my cowgirl skills. Toasting our
achievements - and commiserating our many misses, we tuck
into a dinner of steak, potatoes and salad while being serenaded
by a country singer. The entertainment continues when we
head into town to listen to live bands, take part in line-dancing
and, to my utter delight and wonder, a dance with a real-life
cowboy! But if you think Texas is all about bows, arrows and
lassos, you’re very much mistaken.
10
Life Begins
Saying goodbye to Mayan in the morning, we head to San
Antonio. The second most populated city in Texas, named
after Saint Anthony of Padua, is a colourful, laid-back place,
with Spanish influence visible at every street corner. Imposing
boulevards are easily accessible and tall buildings seemingly
fight with each other for breathing space. I’m staying at the
Drury Plaza Hotel, an American family-run establishment
which was the Alamo State Bank in a former life. I’m impressed
by its grand Art Deco portico and 1920s Ford Phantom car
installation.
The Paseo del Rio, or The River Walk, runs through the centre
of the city and leads to a vast selection of cultural spots, bars
and restaurants. We visit a recently renovated public walkway,
with open spaces and cycles trails. It runs parallel to the
San Antonio Missions National Historic Park, which helps to
preserve four of the five Spanish mission churches that formed
part of the colonisation of the area from the 18th century. The
most famous mission is, of course, The Alamo, although this
sacred site is not part of the Historic Park but run separately
from federal governance.
A brief history into the formation of The Alamo, from
enthusiastic guide John Richardson, gives me some insight
into the suffering and determination of those who died here
during the 19th century Texas Revolution. The site serves as a
reminder of the individuality and steadfastness of the people
who inhabit this part of the state.
A few blocks from The River Walk is the historic area of Market
Square, filled with colourful stalls. I stop for a bite to eat at Mi
Tierra Cafe Y Panaderia, which first opened as a three-table
cafe for local workers in 1941. Today, the cafe is run by the
cuddly and genial Michael Cortez, the grandson of original
owners Pete and Cruz Cortez. The walls are decorated with a
garish mural depicting Mexican