Le Nuage Issue One | Page 50

LOCK UP YOUR A SALUTATION TO OUR FEMALE FOREBEARS FOR HELPING TO RELEASE US FROM THE SHACKLES OF SEXISM. Development of technology led to more time, more time led to a better social calendar for women and a better social calendar led to women drinking, smoking and dancing in front of men; ultimately, enjoying themselves without the restraint of husbands. The lady’s liberation led to a change in style in which Coco Chanel emerged as the star. Chanel was one of the first women in the eye of the media to bob her hair; which was one small step for a woman, one giant leap for womankind. Paul Poiret, a rival of Chanel’s, called her revolutionary designs ‘poverty deluxe’, obviously unhappy with the direction womenswear was taking. The western world disagreed. Removing corsets and almost the waistline altogether, Chanel dressed the fashionable women of the time in loose, swinging dresses, allowing women to dance and live more freely. y Mother was a radical punk in the eighties, marching for equality across genders, across ethnicities and animal rights. Therefore, being born and bred a liberal lady, the emancipation of women is a matter of importance that I am reminded of through my Mother and what she, and so many other women and men have achieved this past century. M The 1920s was a time of jazz, parties and new found freedom for women. This freedom was granted to us in the form of three things: the vote, the automobile and the washing machine. No longer did we have to sit by as our husbands voted; no longer did we have to walk to the market or to dinner parties; no longer did we have to hand wash the laundry. “Being born and bred a liberal lady, the emancipation of women is a matter of importance that I am reminded of through my Mother,” Pictured above: my Mother at 24, who had a two year old daughter while studying a Psychology degree at Cardiff University; Mum att 18 in a play at Cardiff University 49 The fashion house of Chanel declined between 1930 and 1954 and women of the mode followed the word of Christian Dior, the man who created the ‘New Look’ » Daughters in a time for excess. This term was coined by Harper’s Bazaar’s then editor-in-chief Carmel Snow (who was originally to be Vogue’s editor-in-chief after Edna Woolman Chase) naming the style in an article on the Spring/Summer 1947 collection. This style presented women with a new silhouette, one that emphasised all the feminine curves with corsetry and padding around the breasts and hips. British Vogue wrote at the time, ‘Thereare moments when fashion changes fundamentally, this is one of those moments.’ This was probably one of the first and most significant times of the 20th century when women were divided with their fashions. Many women protested against Dior’s ‘New Look’, tearing down his mannequins and rallying against the boned corsets and padded bras; fashion seemed to be going “Chanel was one of th H