DELIGHT IN AUTHENTIC FLAVORS , A GLASS OF WINE AND DOWNTOWN VIEWS AT ALESSA BY CHEF PIROZZI .

By SHARON STELLO

Alessa by Chef Pirozzi ’ s dining room ( bottom ), Funghi Misti pizza ( top left ) and the involtini starter ( top right ), which is organic zucchini , rolled and baked with mozzarella cheese and basil over pomodoro sauce then topped with more mozzarella

Perhaps more importantly , the authentic Italian menu tempts with the chef ’ s timehonored family recipes . Chef and owner Alessandro Pirozzi learned to cook with his grandmother while growing up in Naples , Italy . The youngest of four children ( and the only boy ), he would often hide out in his grandmother ’ s kitchen when the girls were teasing him . This became his sanctuary , where Pirozzi fell in love with cooking . Here , he learned secret family recipes and traditional techniques , which put him on the path to later train to become a chef .

Pirozzi owns two restaurants in Laguna Beach : Alessa by Chef Pirozzi , which he opened in 2010 on Forest Avenue , and Salerno ( formerly called Polina ’ s Salerno ), which he bought eight years ago , on Beach Street .

While the menus at these two bistros are similar , there are some differences . For example , Alessa has a pizza oven , allowing for creations like the margherita with pomodoro sauce , mozzarella , organic basil and extravirgin olive oil infused with Italian herbs , and the Calabria with homemade mild Italian sausage , Gouda cheese and spicy salami and arrabbiata sauce . And , for mushroom lovers ,

the Funghi Misti is a must-try item : Made without tomato sauce , it layers a mix of wild , organic mushrooms , fontina cheese and house-made infused truffle oil . The dough for each pizza ’ s crust is prepared with a blend of flours imported from Italy .

Alessa also offers some meats that aren ’ t commonly found on local menus , like salami made from elk , bison or wild boar as well as duck prosciutto for antipasti options and entrees like wild fish of the day , duck breast and elk chops available upon request . Try the delectable smoked duck breast with wine and blueberry sauce . Pirozzi smokes the duck himself and the meat is cut into succulent medallions drizzled with the sauce and topped with whole blueberries .

Of course , you won ’ t want to dine here without trying the pasta . Consider the bucatini arugula e burrata . The bucatini pasta is tossed with extra-virgin olive oil , garlic , Italian herbs , baby tomatoes and arugula , then topped with fresh burrata cheese and black sea salt . While the sauce contains no dairy , the creamy texture makes it a dreamy dish . Or consider the Maine lobster and fennel-filled ravioli in a pink sauce or the limoncello-infused taglierini pasta mixed with tiger shrimp and shallots in a lemon and white wine sauce .

Other homemade options include Spaghetti Verde , which infuses the pasta with arugula ; slow-cooked lamb over rosemary-infused pappardelle ; Nonna Ida ’ s meat ravioli ; and baked ziti with Mamma ’ s Meatballs . There are also five kinds of gnocchi based on Nonna Titina ’ s recipe for these potato dumplings , as well as three versions of risotto . Staple Italian dishes like chicken Parmigiana , veal Marsala or cioppino don ’ t disappoint either .

To drink , pair your meal with a glass of wine from the impressive list of vino from Italy and California ’ s premier regions . Then sip the night away or end the meal on a sweet note , with desserts like panna cotta , spumone , refreshing gelato or ricotta cheesecake with fresh berries , mango and raspberry puree while getting lost in conversation with your friends or loved one . g

ALESSA BY CHEF PIROZZI 234 Forest Ave . 949-497-8222 ; alessalaguna . com HOURS : 11 a . m . to 9 p . m . daily

TOP LEFT : SHARON STELLO ; TOP RIGHT AND BOTTOM : CLARA BEARD

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