Schnitzel , made with Gstrein ’ s family recipe — but switching veal for Iberico pork — is offered at the restaurant during Oktoberfest from late September through mid-October . |
Nick Gstrein , sous chef at The Drake |
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LEFT : FRANK SALAS PHOTOGRAPHY ; RIGHT : NICK GSTREIN |
FOR NICK GSTREIN , SOUS CHEF AT The Drake , family is a pivotal part of his life . “ Family , to me , means history ,” he explains . “ You want to honor those who have come before you [ and ] remember the past , but also make a name for future generations .”
Gstrein ’ s father , Paul , is also a chef , so he grew up in the kitchen watching his dad work . Whether it was back in Austria at his family ’ s hotel or at nearby eateries like Bayside Restaurant in Newport Beach or Bistango in Irvine , he says that being in those culinary environments inspired him to develop his own skills and desire to cook . “ It just built a foundation — a love and passion for culinary [ arts ],” he explains . “ I always knew that after football was done , I was going to hang up the cleats and helmet and pick up a knife .”
Now , Gstrein works with his dad — who is executive chef and partner at The Drake — on a regular basis . “ Like any job , it has its ups and downs — especially working with family ,” he says . “ But … you always want to work for somebody who has knowledge and has been around the block a few times . I think working with my dad has … taught me a lot .”
Being of Austrian descent , Gstrein notes that he has traveled to Austria roughly 20 times . “ Growing up , whether we went for a week or two weeks or three , the meals were always planned out ,” he says . “ My grandma
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was always the cook , and schnitzel was always a big request .”
He would help her pound out the meat and prepare the family meal — however , they never used recipes . “ Writing out a recipe feels very foreign ,” Gstrein explains . “ As I ’ m sure is the case with a lot of grandmas , there is no recipe . She ’ s just done it 1,000 times .”
Although the dish isn ’ t on the regular menu , Gstrein and his father often incorporate it as an Oktoberfest special , available from late September through the first few weeks of October ; it can also be special ordered while dining in . Traditional schnitzel is crafted with veal , but at The Drake , the father-son duo use Iberico pork to modernize and elevate the meal . After coating it and putting it in the fryer , Gstrein says that he must pay close attention to cook it to where the crust separates slightly from the meat . The result is a sweet , savory dish with a hint of saltiness that he says checks all of the boxes , with the acidic tang from the potato and sweetness from a lingonberry preserve .
They incorporate this special to keep their traditions alive . “ Cooking in my grandma ’ s kitchen as a child was one of my fondest memories growing up — whether I was going to be a chef or not ,” Gstrein explains . “ I think you cherish those moments for the rest of your life and hopefully pass them on down to your own children .” g
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OMA GITA ’ S AUSTRIAN SCHNITZEL
Servings : 4 4 boneless pork ( or veal ) chops Salt , for seasoning 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 eggs 3 cups breadcrumbs 3 cups vegetable oil or lard 1 tablespoon butter 1 lemon wedge , for garnish 1 jar of lingonberry preserves , for garnish
Place the pork chops between two layers of plastic wrap on the countertop . Using a mallet , pound them until they are 1 / 4-inch thick . Season both sides with salt . Prepare three different bowls to dredge each pork chop — one each of flour , whisked eggs and breadcrumbs . Dip in the flour , ensuring it ’ s fully coated , then place into the egg mixture and , finally , coat evenly with breadcrumbs . Pour the oil into a large skillet to a depth of about 1 / 4 inch . ( This should be a shallow fry .) Heat the oil to 350 F over medium-high heat , adjusting the heat source as needed to maintain temperature . Add the butter right before the meat goes in for added flavor . Fry the chops in the hot oil for 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until they are golden brown and crisp . Depending on the size of your skillet , you may need to work in batches to avoid overcrowding . After frying , salt the schnitzel immediately after removing from the pan . Serve hot , garnished with lemon wedges and lingonberry preserves .
— Courtesy of Nick Gstrein of The Drake
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LAGUNA BEACH MAGAZINE 49 |