Lawandmore Magazine Wine & Dine
The Food of Love
Working in London’ s most romantic restaurant isn’ t for everyone but Head Chef Marcellin Marc is more than happy to do the job. Clos Maggiore continues to woo diners far and wide and we were lucky enough to find out why
Interview by Lucienne Harrington
Clos Maggiore has been voted‘ Most Romantic Restaurant’ second year running – is this an accolade you are proud of?
Yes, very much so. We’ ve worked hard to create a special atmosphere, and this combined with our food and wine means guests choose us to celebrate anniversaries and engagement. The credit goes to the owner of the restaurant, Paul Corrett. He has an excellent eye for detail and has created a truly wonderful atmosphere. Our job in the kitchen is to complement this with fantastic food.
What environmental factor do you think most contributes to the romantic atmosphere?
The conservatory – it’ s where most people want to dine if they’ re celebrating a special occasion and it’ s always booked up months in advance. In the summer it has an open roof so you’ re dining in a sun-soaked courtyard and in the winter a roaring fireplace means it is warm and cosy.
You are renowned for serving‘ exquisite’ contemporary French Cuisine, where did you train – have you always wanted to be a chef?
I was lucky enough to work with Pierre Gagnaire for a few years at his three Michelin starred restaurant – I really enjoyed my time there and learnt a lot. I then spend five years at the Michelin-star Le Clos de la Violette in Aix en Provence where I really gained my confidence as a young chef. It was here I discovered the food I most enjoyed cooking.
What is your earliest memory of cooking – is there a particular dish you have loved and continue to do so?
I grew up in a small village with a population of 180 and was raised by my grandmother who was an excellent cook. I would look forward to her braised rabbit, which she always saved for special occasions. I always wished it would be more often and would try and make up celebrations just so she’ d cook her rabbit! At Clos Maggiore I made sure there was a rabbit dish inspired by the Loire Valley on the menu and it’ s been my favourite since day one.
Your first job as a chef was at‘ La Dariole de Viry’ in Paris – are their comparisons between London and Paris?
Yes, going out to eat a fantastic meal is part of the way of life for both Londoners and Parisians. They are two of my favourite cities in the world for dining but I think London has the edge over Paris.
Clos Maggiore has a plethora of awards from‘ Sexiest Restaurant – The Times’ to‘ Best Award of Excellence – Wine Spectator’ and‘ 3 Rosettes – The AA Guide’. Surely a Michelin Star isn’ t too far off the horizon?
It really does mean a lot to us and I’ m very pleased for the team. It shows we must do something right! The most rewarding thing for me is the excellent feedback we get from diners who come back time and time again. I love seeing people enjoy my food and as long as we continue to prepare and serve food that appeals to our diners I’ m happy!
I’ ve been lucky enough to dine at Clos Maggiore and as a keen baker; my favourite part of the meal was definitely desert. Are you a sweet or savoury man?
That’ s a hard one – I love both! However I can’ t finish a meal without having a desert so I guess that makes me more of a sweet man!
What are your two favourite dishes on the Clos Maggiore Menu?
I really do love them all, but I guess if I have to choose then it would be the slow cooked cod with rougaille sauce. My other choice would be the honey glazed Gressingham duck breast served with a plum – I will never get bored of preparing and tasting this dish. And of course the rabbit!
The Wine list at your restaurant is more of a book. With over 2000 choices on offer, an expert sommelier is pivotal – how often do you get together to pair food and wine?
Our sommelier, Daniel Kapp, spends a lot of time in the kitchen tasting food so he can pair the wine. This is so he can recommend wines to diners and they’ re not overwhelmed by the huge choice.
You must work with the most wonderful produce on a daily basis. Do you have a favourite place to source food for the restaurant?
All of the suppliers that I work with have the same passion about food that I do. The majority of them produce in small quantities and take a lot of pride in what they do. I totally support small independent producers and this long-term relationship is very important and contributes towards the success of Clos Maggiore.
Where is your favourite place to eat in the city or further a field?
I have great memories of Gidleigh Park in Devon and Raymond Blanc’ s Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons.
Where do you think the most romantic place in the world is?
I think it’ s more important to enjoy the company you are with – sometimes the simplest places are the most romantic and create the best memories
Who is your cooking hero?
I admire Auguste Escoffier and Joël Robuchon for their achievements and dedication to simplicity and perfection.
What do you think is the key to creating a successful restaurant?
Cooking with really good produce that is brought to the table by passionate and knowledgeable people in a warm and friendly atmosphere.
How do you like your eggs? à la Coque with mayonnaise please!
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