Wine & Dine / Butternut Squash
UPFRONT PLACES | PERSPECTIVES | HAPPENINGS
Sensational Squash
THIS VERSATILE INGREDIENT STARS IN DISHES FROM SOUP TO PASTA AND DESSERT , EXTENDING BEYOND THE TYPICAL FALL SEASON AT LOCAL RESTAURANTS .
By SHARON STELLO
F all is a time often associated with warm , comforting flavors from sage to cinnamon , nutmeg and other spices . And one ingredient — butternut squash — pairs well with all of the above .
A gourd with great potential for sweet or savory dishes , this squash is technically a fruit , although it ’ s used more like a vegetable in the culinary world . The orange , pumpkin-like flesh is often roasted before it ’ s transformed into autumnal appetizers , entrees and treats . Several local restaurants even embrace butternut squash year-round .
URTH CAFFÉ An 8-inch pizza topped with butternut squash and ricotta cheese , offered in every season at Urth Caffé , is extremely popular . It was added to the menu when chef Davide Giova joined the eatery a decade ago . “ Chef Davide is from Mantova , Italy , where ricotta and butternut squash is a favorite fall combination on pizzas ,” says Shallom Berkman , co-owner of Urth Caffé . “… [ It ] is a perfect balance of flavors between the creamy ricotta cheese ; lightly sweet , organic butternut squash ; and the fresh aromatic herbs of sage and oregano .” Vegan pizza dough is made with heirloom grains from Italy and organic squash is roasted fresh daily in stone ovens . ( 949-376-8888 ; urthcaffe . com )
LAS BRISAS A perhaps unexpected use of butternut squash can be found in the tamales at Las Brisas . “ It is an excellent ingredient to use year-round ,” says Executive Chef Christopher Lin . “ The dish is balanced well with the spiciness of the guajillo sauce , the sweetness of the squash and the creaminess of the Oaxaca cheese inside .” Offered for the past year , the item has proven popular . “ Guests love this dish because it ’ s unique , it isn ’ t a filling that is commonly found in tamales [ and ] it ’ s a great play on sweet and savory ,” Lin says . Pasilla chiles add a hint of heat while the cheese offers a bit of tang . ( 949-497-5434 ; lasbrisaslagunabeach . com )
ALESSA BY CHEF PIROZZI For an Italian take on butternut squash , head to Alessa by Chef Pirozzi , where ravioli made with the ingredient has been a bestseller since the restaurant opened . The recipe comes from chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi ’ s grandmother and uncle , a famous chef in Italy . “[ It ] is very flavorful , melts in your mouth , … [ and ] it tastes like a first date kiss that you will surely crave ,” Pirozzi says . The Zucca Ravioli features house-made organic butternut squash ravioli , ricotta filling , a brown butter sage sauce and amaretto almond cookie crumbs on top — offered even when autumn is over . As Pirozzi says , “ When something is so good , … why put a limit on it ?” ( 949-497-8222 ; alessalaguna . com )
HARVEST In its half-acre garden , The Ranch at Laguna Beach grows butternut squash and other produce to use in seasonal recipes at the onsite restaurant , Harvest . For fall , the gourd will be turned into an agnolotti pasta dish . “ We make a butternut squash filling for our house-made pasta , using eggs from our chickens at the farm ,” says Executive Chef Kyle St . John . “ We then cook the agnolotti in a sweet-and-sour agrodolce .” Served on a bed of celery root puree , it ’ s topped with spiced pepitas , golden raisins and crisp sage . “ This dish captures the feeling of the fall season ,” St . John says . ( 949-715-1376 ; theranchlb . com ) g
Butternut squash pizza at Urth Caffé
Las Brisas ’ tamales are made with squash .
Butternut squash ravioli at Alessa
Harvest ’ s agnolotti incorporates the gourd .
FROM TOP : VICTOR BOGHOSSIAN ; COURTESY OF LAS BRISAS ; BOTTOM : COURTESY OF THE RANCH AT LAGUNA BEACH
30 LAGUNABEACHMAGAZINE . COM