The Medina of Tunis A stroll out of time |
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The Medina of Tunis, a |
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traditional town in the |
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heart of the capital, |
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remains undoubtedly a |
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living memory as well |
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as the beating heart of |
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Tunisian life. This timeless |
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venue has survived albeit |
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the modern life. It is |
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today one of the major |
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touristic places. But |
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the discreet Medina has |
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not yet unveiled all its |
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secrets.
Origins of the Medina The Arab city, founded at the end of the 7th century, was built around the Ezzitouna( olive tree) mosque. The architecture of the Medina is very different from that of Western cities. Here, there are no orthogonal streets or wide gates, but winding alleys and dwellings with wooden lattice, which are discovered by pacing this place out of time, away from the crowd.
Discovering the Medina Walking through the Kasbah, a fortress built in the first half of the 13th century, and now the address of the main ministries as well as“ l’ Hôtel de Ville” of Tunis, the capital’ s municipality. When you are engulfed in one of the adjacent streets, you cannot ignore the stoned walls of the Ezzitouna mosque, the heart of the Medina, and the starting point of all its streets. You then discover a tangle of alleys with uneven widths leading towards Echawachia souk, then towards El Berka( goldsmith’ s souk). Not far, the stalls decorated with a thousand
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and one fabrics between djellabas, sefsari, berber plaids and carpets from every Tunisian region. Walking along the streets of the Medina, it is common to catch a glimpse through the door ajar of a shop, of a craftsman hammering leather, or through the window of a house, of a family gathered around tea, to marvel at an old house converted into a café like El Mrabet, a restaurant like Dar El Jeld or a guesthouse like Dar el Medina. Along those alleys, you end up reaching two suburbs: Bab Souika in the North with its Arab architecture and its numerous cafes, and Bab Dzira in the South, where you can enjoy a delicious local fricassé( salty doughnut). Walking along leather and wood accessories, your promenade ends when you are facing a gigantic gate, centring Port de France, the famous old square marking the junction between the Medina and the European city. You are back to the new times!
Ezzitouna mosque, the heart of the Medina Hypotheses about the origin of this
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appellation are numerous. Some say that this is due to the presence, for a long time, of an olive tree in the centre of the patio. But the most probable hypothesis would be that the mosque was built on the site of an ancient olive grove. It is literally the heart of the city, the starting point of the arteries that lead to the main gates. Although it is the second largest mosque in Tunisia( after that of Kairouan), it extends over nearly 5000 square metres. Great religious festivals are celebrated with its walls. Once you access its large courtyard, you will be amazed at its 184 antique columns coming mostly from Carthage site.
The Khaireddine Palace Situated not far from the headquarters of the Association de Sauvegarde de la Médina( Medina conservation society), this palace is integrated into the city’ s restored track( which extends from Ezzitouna Mosque to Pacha Street). Built around 1860 by Minister at that time Khair-Eddin Pasha, this palace’ s architecture enjoyed an
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1. Ruelle des artisans I Artisans alley I حارة الحرفيين
2. Ruelle du quartier d’ habitation de la médina de Tunis I Medina of Tunis, residential alley I حارة الحي
السكن في مدينة تونس
assured colonial influence. Hence the disctinctive, monumental style combining traditional ornamentation with wide openings and Western decorations. This building steeped in history served many purposes during more than a century: a court, a primary school, to become in 1999 the Museum of Tunis. It now houses exhibitions of Tunisian and foreign artists. The palace is an a must-see site of the Medina. I
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