I visited it on an unusually warm spring day, with seagulls crying in the background and tourists tucking into their ice creams on the painted walls; there are various renaissance-style murals, all created by Williams-Ellis’ daughter Susan.
The village is also well-known for its delicate porcelain pieces. Susan, a designer, was already selling her ceramics in Portmeirion when, in 1960, she took over a Stoke-on-Trent pottery and named it after the village. With a nice line in botanical motifs, the business blossomed, and these decorative plates and kitchenware remain a key purchase by tourists today.
It is a delightful escape for a few hours or even a weekend, as you can book a cottage on-site to further immerse yourself in the microcosmic culture. The village itself even hosts a music and arts festival every summer - Festival No.6 - in and around the grounds, which continuously has rave reviews and sees the likes of many upcoming British artists of all genres.
My only issue with this whimsical village was the commerciality of it – yes, it was Williams-Ellis’ aim to make the parish an attraction for temporary visitors rather than a place of permanent residence for locals. This means that there isn’t such a feeling of authenticity like one would have in a hamlet on the Amalfi coast. Nevertheless, its beauty is astounding and I was definitely taken aback by this gem on the Welsh coast that is well worth the getaway. Portmeirion itself has such a richly romantic creation story that it would entice visitors of any age.
Photos by Maria Schevchenko
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