La Civetta March 2025 | Page 31

Eating is believing : How Faith and Tradition shape Italian cuisine

Source : Lauren Gill

During a recent holiday to Sicily , I found myself seated in a small ,

family-run trattoria , surrounded exclusively by Italians — none of whom
seemed remotely surprised to see six hapless Brits about to wade cluelessly into an uncharted sea of food . Keen to prove that I was no mere tourist , I confidently rattled off an order in my finest ( rusty ) Italian : a selection of antipasti , followed by primi , secondi , and , naturally , contorni to round it all off . The waiter nodded , betrayed no concern , and vanished into the kitchen . Not once did anyone suggest I might be making a dreadful mistake .
Source : Lily Wheeler
Freshly emboldened by the first of what would become an alarmingly high number of beers , I settled in . The antipasti arrived — a modest scattering of plates . Or so we thought . We tucked in happily , unaware that we were merely at the foothills of an epic culinary ascent . Because , rather than stopping at a few nibbles before the main event , the antipasti continued . And continued . And then continued some more . Plates appeared as if conjured from thin air — gnocco fritto , slices of grilled melanzane slicked with oil , hunks of local pecorino sardo — each one more insistent than the last . Somewhere around the forty-five-minute mark , we began to feel the weight of our own folly . The waiters , now very much in on the joke , observed with quiet amusement as we struggled valiantly against the tide .
And then — because of course , it wasn ’ t over — the primi arrived . Pasta , steaming and glistening . We laboured through , only to be greeted by the secondi — a defiant , last-act onslaught of meat , fish , and roasted
contorni . A collective sigh rose from our table , part agony , part ecstasy . We were stuffed . Overfed . Defeated .
This was more than just a meal ; it was an experience , an unspoken ritual that demanded respect and endurance . And as I sat there , grappling with my limitations , I realized that Italian dining is not merely about food — it ’ s about patience , dedication , and tradition . It ’ s a sacred act , one that mirrors the country ’ s deep-rooted faith .
As I leaned back in my chair , attempting to recover some semblance of dignity , I asked the waiter if this feast had been excessive by Italian standards . He barely blinked . “ Questo ?” he scoffed . “ Questo è niente . Devi vedere come mangiamo a Natale .”
God help us all .
That night in Sicily , I learned something fundamental : in Italy , a meal is never just about eating . It ’ s about belief — whether in tradition , family , or something greater . There are two things you can never escape in Italy : the scent of simmering tomatoes and the all-pervading presence of the Catholic Church . The two are inseparable . Food here is more than sustenance — it ’ s devotion on a plate , a ritual infused with faith . If you think Italian cuisine is just about pasta perfection , you ’ re missing the real story . This is a nation where eating is believing .
Catholicism has long dictated what Italians eat and when . Fasting and feasting shape the calendar , from meatless Fridays to indulgent Sundays . Thursdays bring gnocchi , a tradition born from preparing for Friday ’ s
obligatory restraint . Monasteries , once the keepers of culinary craft , perfected wine , cheese , and bread-making , ensuring these staples were both divine and delicious .
This deep intertwining of faith and food becomes most evident during religious holidays . Easter Sunday calls for agnello ( lamb ), a nod to Christ ’ s sacrifice , while Colomba di Pasqua , a dove-shaped sweet bread , symbolizes peace .
Christmas Eve ’ s Feast of the Seven Fishes honours the Catholic tradition of abstaining from meat before a holy day . And then there are the saints . St . Joseph ’ s Day brings zeppole , golden pastries filled with cream , while St . Lucy ’ s Day is marked by cuccìa , a wheat dish recalling Sicily ’ s salvation from famine .
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