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Want to wow with a cheesboard worthy of
finishing any meal? Mark Hartstone of La
Fosse at Cranborne reveals how it’s done…
S
turminster Newton, the home of
Harts of Stur, has been at the centre
of all things cheese for over 100
years,” cheeseboard champion and
chef proprietor at La Fosse
Cranborne, Mark Hartstone tells us.
“From 1913 to 1966, dairy trains made deliveries
from the town’s creamery. The town’s cheese
festival has also become a regular regional
phenomenon and was host to Dorset’s Best
Cheeseboard competition. Twice creating the
winning entry for this set me on the road to
having the perfect cheeseboard.”
Should we stick to one animal?
“It’s best to have a range of pasteurised and
unpasteurised cheeses from different animals:
– Woolsery goats cheese is award-winning and
has a great range, though it’s not as strong as
goaty continental cheeses.
– Ewe cheeses are being made on Mere Park
Farm from this autumn.
– Cow cheeses are the most prevalent, with a
range made at Chalke Valley Cheese.
– Buffalo milk cheeses are appearing from the
likes of Laverstoke Park Farm in Hampshire.”
Which styles, and which cheeses?
“Try to include the main different styles of
cheese and types of milk;
Fresh – Woolsery soft goats cheese ticks several
boxes and is a splendid introduction to goats
cheese as it’s not too strong.
Soft – a youthful Cranborne for those liking a
milder soft rinded cheese, a mature Tunworth
for those with stronger palettes. These two
cheeses not only work very well on the board,
but can be baked in the oven.
Semi hard / rind washed – the king of local
washed rind cheeses is Francis. It starts at
Lyburn Farm, though really develops its style at
the hands of a master affineur in Child Okford.
If the Stinking Bishop style aroma is too much,
then a nutty Tilly Whim from Chalke Valley
Cheese is a formidable semi hard cheese.
Hard – Tom Calver at Westcombe Dairy makes
a couple of splendid classic cheeses, with the
farm’s own unpasteurised milk. Their Caerphilly
or Cheddar are of a quality good enough to grace
any cheeseboard.
Smoked – Ford Farms’ Dorset Red is the
Marmite of cheese – you either love it or hate it.
Blue veined – has to be Dorset Blue Vinny,
reinvented by the Davies family, though the
Mere Park Farm’s blue ewes cheese is worth
hunting out too.”
How much cheese?
“The number of cheeses is really dependent on
the number of people eating it at the event.
Large parties? A handful of large cheeses will
work best. Dinner for four to six people is where
the fun begins. I’d recommend using up to 10 in
that case. Buy more than you think you’ll need,
it’s amazing how – when the cheeseboard comes
out at the end of a meal – people who say they’re
full still keep on picking.”
Bread or biscuits?
“In answer to the bread or biscuit question, my
response is always ‘both’. If you like flavoured
cheeses, try getting plain cheeses and serving
dried fruit with it.
If sitting back and letting someone else prepare
your perfect cheeseboard is more your style,
then a visit to La Fosse at
Cranborne should be on
the cards.”
MARK
HARTSTONE
He knows his
stuff – Mark
has reached the
finals in four
national chef
competitions
Guests optional – cheese
can be enjoyed alone
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www.hartsofstur.com