RECONTEXTUALIZED FASHION EDITORIAL – PACHAMAMA
Posted by Catherine Martel on April 21, 2013 •
THIERRY LE GOUÈS, PACHAMAMA (MEGHAN COLLISION & SOLANGE WILVER), CUZCO, FRENCH REVUE DE LA MODE, 2010
Le Gouès attempted to directly relate and connect the models with the locals, without the mediation of a traveler/tourist’s status, by using an ethnographic voice. By alternating black and white photos of the locals in their daily occupations with frames of the models, he attempted to infuse an aura of authenticity in his editorial. In contrast, Testino’s Peru editorial was conveying authenticity to the travel narrative of the models, not to the actual depiction of the locals. Furthermore, Le Gouès deliberately chose to display the models either higher or in front of the locals, thus relegating Otherness to the status of prop.
RECONTEXTUALIZED
The contrast between the Us and Them locates the immaculate White, Western, rich, tall, and skinny models in a position of dominance and power over the poor, untidy, dark-skinned, and stubby Peruvians. Distinguishing cultures further distances races. The “First world” models are portrayed as attempting to be integrated in the Peruvian “Third world” culture but are not actively involved in achieving daily labours. They are passive witnesses posing for the camera and utilizing Otherness solely to draw a parallel between the clothes and the environment. In contrast with Testino’ photo, Meghan is posing in front of lamas and only her furry accessorises are visually interacting with the animals, emphasizing their comodyfied nature.
A flash from the past that resonates with the political climate of todays fashion world! Concidering the controversaries of todays Fashion world in the past!