T he Centredale Revival Company — perched in the center of the North Providence roundabout — is just what its name says : concerned with revitalizing the art of social engagement . Near the crossroads of Johnston and N . P ., it barely needs to call attention to itself ; locals , eager for a watering hole to call their own , have filled the stately space since opening day . Sam Malone and Diane Chambers regularly bicker from the overhead TV — a backdrop that might be aspirational if Centredale hadn ’ t already surpassed “ Cheers ” in neighborhood familiarity . Servers wave diners in from across the room but customers in Bruins caps also greet each other as old friends and family , shouting out next week ’ s plans as they finish up their meals .
On the flip side , it ’ s a misnomer to call this place a pub , though the brass bar is big and certainly serves as the sun for this burgeoning galaxy . For , as manifest as the convivial bar mentality is , the decor says otherwise : Two brick walls border expanses of midnight-blue brocade wallpaper and white tufted banquettes , all illuminated by several epic chandeliers . The effect falls somewhere between Victorian drawing room and backyard barbecue , otherwise known as the sweet spot for weekday dining . Flip-flops have as much of a presence as heels do and families are as accounted for as couples .
If word of mouth weren ’ t enough , Centredale ’ s focus on live music only heightens the draw . Singers routinely settle at the mic throughout the weekend , though the playlist varies on the meal . Dinner gets a steady stream of the classics : Van Morrison , Bill Withers , Jackson Brown and a dose of Wilson Pickett to get the crowd singing along . But show up on a Sunday morning and you ’ ll be met with a medley of hangover help , from Harry Styles ’ s “ Watermelon Sugar ” to Blackstreet ’ s “ No Diggity ,” played acoustically and with ’ 90s nostalgia . This is , after all , a place that serves water in Bulleit bourbon bottles because , if we ’ ve earned anything this year , it ’ s the right to drink early and often .
Yet even a Saturday night that ekes into Sunday morning won ’ t keep the kitchen from its roots . Centredale is a multifaceted revival and one of these commitments is to celebrate New England food , specifically the dishes that Rhode Islanders can call our own . Dinner is a shout-out to Federal Hill by way of crispy meatballs served with marinara and ricotta ($ 10.50 ) and a
THE CENTREDALE REVIVAL CO .
2025 Smith St ., North Providence , 232-8696 , thecentredale . com .
Open Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner , Sundays for brunch . Wheelchair accessible . Street parking .
CUISINE New England fare .
CAPACITY Eighty .
VIBE Dressed-up British pub .
PRICES Appetizers $ 9 –$ 21 ; entrees $ 12 –$ 22 ; dessert $ 9 –$ 12 .
KAREN ’ S PICKS Steak sandwiches , fish and chips , bread pudding , brunch .
RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l JUNE 2021 97