June 2021 | Page 89

pastries to soups and sandwiches became her passion . They started out with pastry popups that served quesitos with puff pastry , sweet cheese and tropical fruit jam , breakfast egg and cheese and chicken empanadas , powdered sugar-dusted buns called mallorcas and buttery , flaky sweet and savory galettes with tropical fruit and blueberry jammy centers or caramelized onion , potato and bacon baked inside ( nowadays the galette flavors rotate but always deliver similar flavor profiles ).

Once Pagán was ready to open the shop last summer , she formed a small team , including her husband and bakers Alyssa Rosario and Lauren Burke . They chose to offer rice-based lunch specials and went hard on egg sammies with a spicy kick from chorizo or spicy sauce , and almost always laced them with avocado on brioche . Takeout specials vary day to day . On the afternoon I visited , I savored a rich roasted tomato , onion and garlic soup that was almost like a stew topped with crunchy fried onions , paired with an open-faced croqueta madame sandwich with a gooey poached egg , ham croquette , cheddar cheese and bechamel served with a side salad sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts and drizzled with a citrus-based dressing . “ We ’ ve been mindful to add little touches to every dish to make it tropical , Latin and different ,” Pagán says .
Guests should be prepared to leave with a box of pastries to savor that same day or the next morning . Pagán and Rosario are working together to perfect croissants in different flavors , including chocolate , as well as an almond sesame version that repurposes the solids from their horchata , a rich , creamy drink made from those ingredients plus cinnamon and other spices . The flavor is stuffed into the middle of the twenty-seven-layered laminated flaky

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RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l JUNE 2021 87