mystery. David Gravino, owner of Iggy’ s Doughboys & Chowder House, has been in the restaurant business since he was fourteen. But even he doesn’ t have a definitive answer as to the clam cake’ s hyper-locality.
“ Among all these waterfront places, there’ s a lot of clam shacks,” says Gravino.“ And I also think with Rocky Point, dating back to the 1800s, where they did clam cakes and chowder, that actually helped it become a staple in the state.”
Rocky Point, the much-loved amusement park on the Warwick shore, operated from the late 1840s to 1995 and was famous for its saltwater pool and clam cakes and chowder. I remember beelining it to the park as soon as the bell rang on the last day of school. We’ d run from ride to ride and then hightail it to the Shore Dinner Hall once we’ d worked up an appetite. Meals were served family style on long banquet tables, creating a communal dining experience. It felt like every teenager in the state was there those days.
Chowder and clam cakes make up about 60 percent of Iggy’ s business, Gravino says. And since Iggy’ s is one of the few clam shacks open year-round, locals and visitors can enjoy their chowder and clam cakes even when the chill returns.
But some locals, like Erica Bryson, think of clam cakes as a summer-only indulgence. Her grandmother worked at Rocky Point Shore Dinner Hall and was an expert at clam cake preparation.
“ Her entire neighborhood in the summer would make clam cakes and chowder out of what she called the summer kitchen,” Bryson says.“ They would … have clam cakes and chowder for the whole neighborhood in my grandmother’ s backyard.”
So many closely held memories are grounded in food— the scents, the flavors and the people we share meals with. Standing in line at Aunt Carrie’ s, you’ ll encounter folks from all walks of life. Many of them equate the waft of saltwater and fried food carried on the breeze with time spent with loved ones in the summer.
“ I think a lot of people have fond, nostalgic memories of having clam cakes at the beach,” says Baxter, executive chef at Connie and Ted’ s.“ Getting a brown paper bag, sitting down and eating them with your grandpa. It’ s a beautiful thing.” 🆁
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