Jewellery Focus October 2018 | Page 12

MONTH IN REVIEW www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk WATCHES Watchmaker Roger W Smith visits Bonhams Clock & Watch Exhibition The UK’s best known watchmaker, Roger Smith visited the Clock and Watch Exhibition at Bonhams to examine two famous, historical watches part of a private collection owned by Dr John C Taylor. The first watch, a Thomas Tompion watch from London dated 1697. The watch on show is said to be the best preserved of Tompion’s early repeating watches, the innovative movement is concealed by the employment of secret secure latches. Pre-balance-spring watches were generally single-handed, but the Thompion featured two hands for hours and minutes, read against boldly set out numerals. The Tompion has a top that can be pressed to ring out the first quarter hour that has just passed and the hour that has just passed. The second watch viewed was the technologically advanced David Ramsay royal watch – precisely 300 years old this year and made for a King. The silver case upper and lower covers are engraved with scenes from St Luke’s Gospel. Both watches were handmade by craftsmen who made their own tools to create these masterpieces. Roger W Smith said: “It is interesting to see how technical advances took off very, very quickly in these apparently primitive times. For me, it’s a wonderful opportunity to see these never been seen together before clocks and watches at first hand.” 12 JEWELLERY FOCUS 1 2 RETAIL 75% of retail payments now made by card Retail purchases made by card now accounts for more than three quarters of all retail sales for the first time, according to the British Retail Consortium’s (BRC) latest annual Payments Survey. The trade association said this has partly been driven by UK customers increasingly using cards for lower value payments, traditionally dominated by cash. Cash fell again by more than 1%, accounting for just 22% of all retail sales. The BRC Payments Survey data is a sample from 48% of the whole retail industry and looked at the methods of payment UK shoppers are using when buying goods in store and online. As card payments have become more prevalent, retailers have expressed concern at the rising costs of accepting cards. The survey revealed that retailers spent an additional £170m to process card payments in 2017, reaching almost £1bn for the year. The research showed that increasing costs have been driven entirely by card scheme fees, which rose by 39% in 2017. The increase in fees to retailers in 2018 ranged between 30% and 100% for some transactions. In July, the Court of Appeals ruled in the favour of retailers who claimed card fees charged by Mastercard and Visa when customers made a transaction were too high. The BRC has called for action from the government and the regulator to address the problem of rising scheme fees. BRC head of payments and consumer credit, Andrew Cregan, said: “EU payment regulation introduced in 2015 delivered savings for the retail industry and consumers, but these benefits have now been eroded by increases in other card fees. In fact many smaller retailers have questioned whether savings were ever passed on by card companies”. 3 4 5 6 7 8 ONLINE Everledger launches rebranding and new diamond consumer website Everledger has undergone a complete rebranding including a new brand logo, website and new diamond consumer website. The significant rebranding of the independent emerging technology enterprise was undertaken in order to “parallel the evolutionary trajectory of Everledger from a start-up over three years ago, to the global enterprise it is today”. The firm said the rebrand “reflects the continued growth as the market leader in digital provenance into the future, through the use of its proven, scalable emerging technology platform to deploy breakthrough solutions for organisations to address real-world challenges”. Since being established in the use of blockchain for the diamond industry, Everledger has done the same in other industries including coloured gemstones and fine art. Looking ahead, the company claims there is an opportunity for a “natural progression” into other high-risk supply chains such as precious metals and minerals. Everledger’s work is aimed to drive transparency along global complex supply chains, bringing together disparate stakeholders to build trust, leading to sustainable and responsible practices. The ultimate goal is to ensure a positive economic, social and environmental impact. The company said that as the most important key pillars of the Everledger brand are trust and transparency, the new brand logo reflects the continued drive to impact industries where provenance and trust matter. October 2018 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk