Jewellery Focus March 2018 | Page 3

EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS Scrutinising ethics CONTRIBUTORS ALAN FRAMPTON Alan spent 30 years in the flower business supplying companies such as Sainsbury’s and Waitrose before becoming director of ethical jewellery retailer Cred Jewellery SALLY DODSON Sally is a freelance creative industries project manager for the Contemporary British Silversmiths training programme and has been in the crafts industry for over 15 years JANET FITCH Janet is a veteran JF columnist, and has written for both magazines and newspapers including the Sun and the Daily Mail, later owning her own jewellery shops LEONARD ZELL Leonard has been training fine jewellers for 25 years. His monthly column gives some top tips on sales training and improving your bottom line ON THE COVER The moral compass of jewellers remains one of the biggest questions facing the industry. The Human Rights Watch criticised the principles of the whole industry in its report ‘The Hidden Cost of Jewelry’, where it asked whether jewellers and trade associations were doing enough to make sure they source ethically sound metals, stones and minerals. Looking further into this, Lewis Catchpole has spoken to jewellers directly to let them voice their opinion on the matter. Turn to page 24 to read more. In another discussion du jour, jewellers are not exempt from the debate of gender inequality and wage gaps either, a question posed to them in this month’s Talking Point on page 19. Pay scale isn’t the only form of sexism the sector is finding itself having to answer. Watchmaker Breitling made the decision to remove and revise any advertisements which epitomise the brand after customers deemed its portrayal of women to be sexist. It is not solely the shift in morality and attitudes that jewellers have had to respond to recently. The perceived lack of British silversmiths in today’s industry has been raised, with a fear that it may present a risk to the silver manufacturing sector. Alessandro Carrara explores these concerns on page 31. I hope you enjoy this issue. MICHAEL NORTHCOTT Editor, Jewellery Focus [email protected] SIGN UP FOR THE DAILY BRIEFING Let us update you with industry news while you drink your morning coffee March 2018 | www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 | ISSN 2046-7265 RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY Is the jewellery industry over- reliant on the RJC for their human rights due diligence? IS SILVERSMITHING AT RISK? TALKING POINT Responsible Jewellery Page 24 What can the industry do tackle a potential silversmithing skills shortage? We ask is it time for jewellers to be more open about how the gender pay gap affects the industry? 47 35 LEONARD ZELL BRIDAL JEWELLERY YOUR VIEWS The importance of body language in making a sale A showcase of what is on trend in the bridal market We talk to the owner of Crazy Pig Designs March 2018 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk 58 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk/newswire JEWELLERY FOCUS 3