Jewellery Focus JFOC July 2017 digital | Page 29

FEATURE JORIE GRASSIE JORIE GRASSIE: THE LAST DEER TUSK JEWELLER IN THE UK? Jorie Grassie: The last deer tusk jeweller in the UK? Edinburgh-based Jorie Jewellery is thought to be the only jewellery range made using an ancient method of turning deer tusks into wearable pieces. Set up by American born Jorie Grassie, the technique dates back as far as 15,000 years but now has a contemporary spin. By SHEKINA TUAHENE J July 2017 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk One reason for the change in preference may be the limited resources available to create such pieces. Strict requirements on the number of deer culled mean it can be difficult to find enough tusks to make enough consistent pieces for an extensive range. “It is harder and harder,” says Grassie, “to source deer tusks in enough quantity and quality in order to make enough pieces to run a business”. Of the 50 or so deer culled in a year on Grassie’s land near Fort Augustus, each deer has two usable tusks. So this means Grassie only has 100 or so pieces a year to work with. She manages with limited resources by occasionally obtaining some from friendly neighbours or buying more to replenish her stock. To make her jewellery, Grassie uses the top two incisor teeth – or tusks - of the Red Deer Stag. ‘‘ Deer culling is a necessity to ensure the good health and sustainability of the deer population. It is also required by Scottish Law. ‘‘ orie Grassie recently acquired Harvey Nichols as her first English stockist and is on a mission to revive deer tusk jewellery in the industry. Hailing from the US prairie state of Illinois, Grassie left her American home to come to Scotland almost 20 years ago. Living on the Culachy estate with her husband and four sons, Grassie took in her surroundings in the Scottish Highlands and decided to make a living out of the materials naturally available to her: deer tusks. Reviving a jewellery making method which was widely used in the Neolithic era, Grassie says her decision to make pieces using this long-forgotten technique, saying it “excites me” because of its “rich history dating back 15,000 years”. On the Culachy estate she owns and lives on, deer are culled to allow the species to flourish, limit damage to trees and prevent the spread of Lyme disease. As Grassie explains: “Deer culling is a necessity to ensure the good health and sustainability of the deer population. It is also required by Scottish Law. For those not familiar with stalking, the beasts are taken with skill and dignity. Additionally, there is no waste as every part of the deer is used.” In the Neolithic period that deer tusk jewellery was birthed from, the men and women who wore these pieces were considered and identified themselves as “skilled providers”. The style continued to prove a popular style of accessory, with the most recent and prominent record of the jewellery being used in the Victorian times, when people still used to incorporate human hair and teeth in their jewellery. Deer tusk jewellery is probably most well known among the royals, as Prince Albert commissioned a necklace, earrings and brooches as a sign of his love for the Scottish Highlands and his wife, Queen Victoria. Nowadays, the art of creating jewellery using deer tusks seems to have been long forgotten among most designers. Apart from Grassie, it is difficult to find anyone still using this prestigious method once favoured by high society. JEWELLERY FOCUS 29