Jewellery Focus February 2019 | Page 23

FEATURE FEATURE ISABELLA LIU ‘‘ Liu recommends for a young brand entering the market, a smaller scale retailer is a better fit than a department store just “not actually being there” to manage what was going on. She explains that this was negated by having a good team based in London and forging strong contacts in China which she called “essential” to any brand. “I would highly recommend partnerships, you need to be able to find good partners – there is a saying if you want to work fast work alone but if you want to go far work together. This is true not just for China but for everywhere. “In China it is called “Shan Yuan 善缘: ‘Shan’ meaning ‘kind or good’ and ‘Yuan’ meaning ‘destiny’, so altogether Shan Yuan means building up your ‘kind destiny’. For my own philosophy for ‘building up Shan Yuan’ it means ‘like-minded people working together and supporting each other and because of this are more likely to grow’.” Liu adds that she was fortunate as she “already knew a lot of the challenges beforehand” and knew which pitfalls, in terms of logistics, to avoid. She explains that she had been “laying the foundations” for entering the Chinese market for over two years and strongly February 2019 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk advises that other brands take a similar level of preparation. “In my case my own team can do very well on the content side such as the brand building, the production, the supply chain my team can do all that here. Where I needed help was the marketing and distribution and I still need some development in these areas.” Liu recommends for a young brand entering the market, a smaller scale retailer is a better fit than a department store, where although the product reachers a wider range of consumers, it also comes with lower margins and increased risk. However she says “it is about finding a place that shares a similar message to your brand and where your target consumers are most likely to go”. When asked if smaller brands have an advantage in that area as they are more flexible and easily adaptable, Liu points out they also have a “lack of resources” to adapt if they are required to. “It will cost them a lot of resources and investment and the risk of entering the Chinese market is on a much larger scale,” she says. “For the bigger brands while ‘‘ Twilight - Waxing Crecent Ring they have the disadvantage of being less flexible to changes and wish to stick to their traditional brand values, which may not work in different markets, they have the money and resources to do so - they can afford to take the risk and possibly get it wrong before they get it right.” THE FUTURE Looking ahead Liu wishes to eventually expand her offerings not only geographically across China but also her demographic. “I would like to grow my collections and to tailor them specifically to different areas of China. I was lucky with The Twilight Collection as I expected it be well received in the South but when I brought it to the North they also loved it. “In China my target consumer is relatively young and sits between 16-45 where compared to the UK it is slightly older and goes up to the people in their 60 and 70s - I’d like to see my Chinese audience also reflect this.” After reflecting further she adds: “I also want to further develop good partnerships in China, this does not necessarily mean on a large-scale as for me it is more important for it to be partners that try and help each other to grow and I can trust. Even if the opportunity looks good, but i’m not sure I can work with the people, I will not take it.” Twilight-Waxing Gibbous Ring and Bangle Set JEWELLERY FOCUS 23