Jewellery Focus August 2018 | Page 30

FEATURE MALE JEWELLERY Male Jewellery The state of the market With more men wearing rings, bracelets and even necklaces than ever before, LEWIS CATCHPOLE hears about the current state of the male jewellery market and asks if it could ever compete with the size of the traditional women’s jewellery segment James Sherwood 30 JEWELLERY FOCUS Will Smith, Lewis Hamilton, Alexander Skarsgard and Lucky Blue Smith - and serve as role models and encouragement for men to think about wearing fine jewellery,” says Sherwood. “Will Smith started wearing double diamond earrings a couple of decades ago and now nobody would look twice at a guy wearing gem-set ear studs whether they are diamond or synthetic. The historic high jewellery houses have seen the demand for men’s jewellery [increase] and you’ll notice that the offer for men on the websites of Cartier, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron has significantly increased from just wedding bands and cufflinks.” Men wearing double diamond earings and fine jewellery are not the only indicators of the growth over the years in the market, however. Chana Baram, a retail analyst at Mintel points towards the growth of interest in male fashion jewellery, with sales having doubled over the past two years. She says: “We are seeing a growing trend towards men taking more care of their look and appearance, which has translated into more male interest in several fashion categories, such as bags and footwear and jewellery. Similarly, while fewer women are purchasing fashion/costume jewellery, we have seen a significant rise in young men buying this category.” She says some 18% of men aged 16-34-years-old bought costume jewellery in the 12 months leading up to October 2017, compared with just 9% in the same period in 2015. The current state of the market Baram says data currently points to a significant increase of activity focused online and specifically aimed towards the men’s market. “Currently men are more likely than women to look at social media for jewellery inspiration, at 40% compared to only 31% of women. Men are looking towards stylish celebrities for inspiration, with people frequently photographed wearing fashion jewellery such as bracelets, rings and long necklaces. We have certainly noticed a trend in ‘‘ Men are now wearing brooches, necklaces, rings, bracelets as everyday wear as they strive for various ways to express themselves in a modern age ‘‘ “You only have to look at the ubiquity of tattoos to understand how much men want to express their personality and individuality. Men’s jewellery is like a tattoo that can be taken off at the end of the day. Jewellery is a way of speaking before you do. It communicates individuality but also non-conformity,” says men’s style aficionado and author of upcoming book ‘Jewelry for Gentlemen’, James Sherwood. Men’s jewellery has dipped and soared in popularity since the very beginning of fashion history, but the past few years has seen a new peak for the popularity of male jewellery. Men are now wearing brooches, necklaces, rings, bracelets as everyday wear as they strive for various ways to express themselves in a modern age. Henry Graham, creative director and co- founder of Wolf & Badger sees the development of men’s jewellery as a filtering-down process led by jewellery’s presence in pop culture. He says: “These changes have been influenced by pop culture, which has in turn filtered to the catwalk and then by extension to the high-street and big name stores.” Data from market research company Mintel shows that over the past five years 48% of men purchased rings for themselves, 32% purchased bracelets/bangles for themselves, 47% purchased necklaces for themselves. “Men of all ages in the public eye are unafraid to wear significant pieces of jewellery - I’m thinking about August 2018 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk