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ramparts, later enlarged by the British. For a few days in January, Galle is taken over by the GLF, one of the largest literary festivals in Asia, hosting local and international authors, but at the time of our first encounter it was a slightly run down sleepy working town with grass growing at the edges of its narrow dusty lanes; if you were in need of a drink you had to go to a hotel, or one of its many guest houses. The first, tiny cafe, Anura’s, opened two years later and comprised of two tables on the narrow verandah and two more in the road sheltered from the noonday sun under beach umbrellas. Now Anura has