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moved to larger premises, the Fort is busy with traffic and tourists, boutique shops and hotels have moved into many of the beautifully restored Dutch houses, the roads are paved with fake cobblestones unencroached by a single grass blade and Anura is in competition with over a hundred restaurants and eateries. In January this year, as part of the Art Trail during this year’s festival, my book ‘Travels With a Paintbox’ was launched, along with an exhibition of illustrations, at the old colonial style Closenberg Hotel, across the bay from the Fort. It was on a brief visit to the capital, Colombo, on our first trip to the green and alluring island of Serendib (one of the old names for Sri Lanka, and the noun from which we derive the term serendipity, or happy chance) that a happy chance meeting with S.H.Sarath, one of Sri Lanka’s most important artists, led to my first exhibition two years later in his studio: a small show of watercolours opened by the then British High Commissioner, Linda Duffield, which