PHOTOGRAPHY : DANA LAVERTY .

One of the most-anticipated restaurant openings occurred last month when Maven ’ s Delicatessen opened for business . Ever since , diners have feasted on sandwiches piled high with smoked in-house pastrami , authentic boiled bagels , matzo ball soup , rugelach , savory bialys and more at the modern Jewish deli in the Blackstone Place plaza in Pawtucket . ( In Rhode Islandese , it ’ s the plaza where Garden Grille is located and where Barney ’ s Bagels — RIP — used to be .) It ’ s a passion project for owner Jason Sugarman , pictured at right , who has fond memories of visiting Wolfie Cohen ’ s Rascal House in Florida with his grandfather . He wanted to bring the same kind of authentic Jewish deli to Rhode Island and told his friend , acclaimed chef Jamie D ’ Oliveira , about his aspirations . “ Why don ’ t you do it now ?” asked D ’ Oliveira , the culinary force behind eateries like Red Stripe and Mill ’ s Tavern . So for the past two years , Sugarman and D ’ Oliveira — Maven ’ s culinary director — visited delis in New York , sampling recipes , seeing what works and what doesn ’ t , and rolling out a rich menu of classic Jewish delicacies and some new favorites with a twist . Think items like pancakes and lox platters for breakfast ; Reubens ( on homemade rye , of course ), hot dogs and hamburgers for lunch ; and larger dinner items like seared salmon entrees followed up with homemade desserts like chocolate layer cake and carrot cake — a secret family recipe from executive chef and bakery director Scott Taylor ’ s family . “ This is my passion ,” says Sugarman . “ I ’ ve really wanted to do my own brand for a long time — it ’ s something I ’ m really passionate about .” The restaurant is open daily , serving breakfast , lunch and dinner . — DANA LAVERTY

14 RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l JANUARY 2024