January 2020 Edition Apparel January 2020 issue | Page 49

FEATURE
IT IS NOT THE WEAVES ALONE
THAT FORM THE FULCRUM OF THIS
GROWING USE OF TRADITIONAL
TEXTILES IN MENSWEAR.
into couture. The tie-dye techniques of shibori
and leheriya, which were earlier only associated
with women’s attire, are now finding meaning in
menswear too. Shibori, with its eclectic use of
dyes, tying methods, and colour combinations,
finds good use in stoles. Shibori shirts, too, are
becomong increasingly popular in both casual
and formal contexts. Apart from apparel, stoles
and shawls for men are also commanding a
following. Weaves of the Northeast (India), such
as those from Nagaland, are fashioned into
exquisite narrow stoles to be wrapped around
the neck. They can also be worn like cravats or
mufflers with a formal suit or coat. The fabrics in
deep colours of blue, red, black, and green with
beautiful symbols is arresting and have their
own charm.
This sense of innovation, with not only fabric
design but also the adaptation of colours, has
made the use of traditional Indian textiles in
menswear interesting and even sought-after. The
menswear arena in India is certainly evolving.
the “powerloom himroo” continues to thrive
today, there is no trace to be found of the original
product that would have a high demand in the
luxury market.” The studio has started producing
a small quantity of himroo against orders as a
means to provide livelihoods and prevent the art
from dying.
It is not the weaves alone that form the
fulcrum of this growing use of traditional textiles
in menswear; there is plenty of experimentation
with prints as well. Ajrakh has emerged as a
winner in fabric-printing, and in the last few years,
it has been used enormously in menswear—be
it kurtas, shirts, and even T-shirts, thanks to the
sheer range and depth of colours, due to which
ajrakh block prints standout. Ajrakh craftsmen
have worked miracles on silk, cotton, mashru,
modal, and many other fabrics, leading the
buyers to be astounded by its sheerness and
variety. Thus, it is but natural that it extends to
menswear as well. The vibrant shades of black,
orange, maroon with indigo (and more) and
finely printed motifs instantly catch the eye. The
prints range from geometric to florals and a mix
of the two as well. Amounee, Fabindia, and
Tijori are some of the brands that offer ajrakh-
printed shirts for men. Batik, though originally
from Indonesia, has found a strong hold in India.
A host of batik-printed kurtas and shirts can be
seen in Kolkata, where it is a part of the mass-
merchandising culture. It also makes its way
APPAREL
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January 2020
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