January 2020 Edition Apparel January 2020 issue | Page 47

FEATURE
PLAIN OR DOUBLE-SHADED
COTTONS, STRIPES, AND SMALL
CHEQUERS CAN BE FOUND IN
COLOURS THAT WERE NEVER
THOUGHT TO BE A PART OF THE
MENSWEAR VOCABULARY BEFORE.
be found in colours that were never thought to be
a part of the menswear vocabulary before. Tribes
India, a venture of TRIFED, the Ministry of Tribal
Affairs, Government of India, also boasts a range
of scarves, mufflers, kurtas, and achkans for
men, all designed using traditional Indian cottons
accentuated with various crafts.
Nearly all ethnic labels—Fabindia, Indian
Peacock, Tattva, and Translate lay emphasis
on ikat for men. Indian Peacock has recreated
embroideries from Lucknow, some zardozi,
and kantha work were apparent; shawls stood
out with pashmina-based jamawar and kani.
However, with many facets of traditional textiles
undergoing change, a lot of ethnic Indian weaves
are being adapted as apparel for men. Gone are
the days of pastels or basic colours of black,
brown, and maroon. The name of the game now
is bright hues—from purple to turquoise and
everything in between.
One of the earliest to spot this lacuna in
traditional designs for a man’s wardrobe was
brand Aagor. Aagor is the in-house brand of the
ant, an NGO working in Assam. The brand’s
mission, as the NGO puts it: “Aagor—a Bodo
word meaning ‘motifs’, not just has a rural
connect in the name, but also in its craftswomen
and administration. Registered as a separate
trust, Aagor involves over a hundred women
weavers, largely from the Bodo tribe. Holding
on to the traditional motifs that are inspired from
nature—such as daorai mekhrep or wink of a
peacock, dinkhiya or fern, kasau bikha or chest of
a turtle—some of the best designers collaborate
with rural weavers to bring out fashionable outfits
with strong traditional designs.” Working with
Bodo tribes, the brand has successfully created
an excellent range of kurtas in cotton using typical
Bodo weaves stylised into contemporary designs.
Their range consists of plain kurtas with Bodo
designs woven around the neckline. The colour
palette features myriad shades that are typically
seen in saris. In all these pieces, the traditional
design ethos has been retained, giving the
creations a contemporary twist. Plain or double-
shaded cottons, stripes, and small chequers can
APPAREL
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