January 2020 Edition Apparel January 2020 issue | Page 43

FEATURE NATURAL DYES Laotian textiles stand out for their colours that owe their beauty to natural dyes. Apart from their beauty, colours also have traditional or cultural meaning. A variety of elements from nature, especially parts of plants (roots, bark, leaves, flowers, fruits, seeds, and insect wax) are used for colouring yarns; and mordants (such as alum, ash water, iron, and limestone) are used to fix colours. Among the natural elements used for colouring are fresh leaves and stems of indigo (for different shades of blue), bark and fruit of ebony (for grey and black), turmeric root (for bright yellow and orange), fresh leaves of lemongrass (for yellow), and fresh leaves and bark of the teak tree (for pinkish grey and cream). Some craft centres/stores offer information and workshops on the use of natural dyes and many have exquisite garments that are designed using fabrics woven with natural dyes, which are an inspiration to designers. Among the latter is Madame Boupha, located on Sisavangvong Road, which has a collection of exquisite THE TEXTILE HERITAGE Laos is home to a large number of ethnic groups, each of which has its distinct identity and this is manifest in the wonderful spectrum of handwoven textiles, attire, and accessories that open up a world of design expressions. Women have a repertoire of traditionally woven textiles and wear the sinh—a skirt, and this has kept alive the practice of handweaving textiles with traditional motifs and patterns that bear ethnic significance. Among the traditional motifs are the naga (the water serpent), siho (the half-lion and half- elephant), the hong (bird), elephant, frog, crab, and birds, each with a specific meaning in the local culture. Of the weaving techniques, the supplementary discontinuous weft technique (for creating intricate motifs and elaborate patterns of a fine weave) and patterned ikats truly reflect the skills of Laotian weavers. Sericulture has long been a practice in Laos and this has led to the creation of an array of textiles for garments with yarns coloured using natural dyes. The practice includes rearing silkworms on mulberry trees, processing cocoons, spinning the yarns, colouring the yarns with natural dyes, and handweaving fabrics. These skills have been passed down generations and are appreciated by textile lovers and designers alike. THE SUPPLEMENTARY DISCONTINUOUS WEFT TECHNIQUE AND PATTERNED IKATS TRULY REFLECT THE SKILLS OF LAOTIAN WEAVERS. travellers. Given the range of handmade crafts and textiles in the town, the Luang Prabang Handicraft Association suggests looking for products with the ‘Handmade in Luang Prabang’ sticker to find locally produced authentic handicrafts. APPAREL I January 2020 I 41