REAR VIEWS OF NOTE
BY MICHAEL THOMPSON
Ferdinand Berthoud
CHRONOMÈTRE FB 2RE
AS YOU MAY HAVE READ IN THIS ISSUE ’ S BOUTIQUE SECTION , this stunning debut is , in our estimation , one of the year ’ s most impressive . Designed to honor the Marine Clock No . 6 made in the 18th century by the brand ’ s namesake , the Chronomètre FB 2RE introduces an entirely new movement , Calibre FB-RE . FC .
This manual-wind movement combines its already unusual constant force design using torque-equalizing fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second remontoire visible from caseback . Ferdinand Berthoud connects this assembly to the central seconds hand as deadbeat seconds ( visible on the front of the watch ), like marine chronometers or regulator-type clocks .
While a few high-end , complex watches from brands like A . Lange & Söhne and F . P . Journe are known for their application of power-regulating remontoires , Ferdinand Berthoud has designed its version to operate concentrically with the escape wheel , directly connected to the escapement itself , altering the remontoire ’ s traditional purpose as a regulating device .
As the brand explains , “ This device is designed to store a small amount of energy in a secondary hairspring , playing a driving rather than a regulating role . It delivers its force to the balance via the escapement at such short intervals that the variation of the force in the hairspring is not taken into account .” Thus , this unusual application of the remontoire complements the role of fusee , which , unsurprisingly , heightens the movement ’ s precision and efficiency . The design , coupled with an exceptionally light titanium seconds hand , also extends the watch ’ s power reserve to fifty hours , a measurement also displayed on the back of the watch .
FINE FINISHING The brand also extends an ode to its past by updating the historical frosted finish technique with an extremely fine manual graining using a brush . Finishers mirrorpolish the arrow-shaped steel balance bridge as well as the upper part of the stepped escape-wheel bridge . The barrel and the fusee are satin-brushed , as are all 790 components of the chain .
Finally , Ferdinand Berthoud hand-chamfers and bevels all the FB 2RE movement parts with traditional artisan tools .
The Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE with remontoir d ' égalité is available in two ten-piece limited and numbered editions . One will be made in rose gold with a black enamel dial and the other in white gold with a white enamel dial .
THE ESSENTIALS
CASE 44mm x 14.3mm white gold or rose gold with sapphire ‘ porthole ’ at 10 o ’ clock . Screw-in exhibition caseback .
MOVEMENT Manual-wind Caliber FB-RE . FC , designed with 26 bridges held by 10 steel pillars , features constant-force regulation , fusee-and-chain transmission and one-second remontoir d ’ égalité . Functions include hours , minutes , deadbeat seconds , power reserve ( on the back of the movement ) and time setting with stop-seconds device on the balance . Suspended fusee – differential winding system ( patented ) and suspended barrel with Maltese cross stop-work system ( patented ), power reserve of 50 hours ; frequency of 18,000 vph . Total components , including the chain : 1,200 .
PRICE 210,000 Swiss Francs , or about $ 230,000 .
WINTER 2021 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 97