iW Magazine Winter 2020 | Page 76

On The Wrist BY KEN NICHOLS THE ORIS DIVER  SIXTY-FIVE CHRONOGRAPH T HE LATEST ORIS DIVER SIXTY-FIVE CHRONOGRAPH is a bold two-register black and gold monster with a standout sapphire domed crystal. THIS VINTAGE-INSPIRED CHRONOGRAPH, which debuted in mid-2019, grabs you with its striking black, glossy dial that’s framed with a bronze-edged bezel and gilt applied markers. It loudly says, “Read me. I don’t care if you’re under water or not.” The brown leather strap (also available in a steel bracelet) is comfortable on my loaner with exceptional legibility and super-functional features. Despite the 100-meter water resistance, this bad boy probably will not get wrapped around dive suit. More than likely, it will time the heck out of a hamburger on a grill. The watch’s bronze bezel trim is a nod to the highly successful limited edition Carl Brashear Chronograph in bronze which came out a couple of years ago. (Good luck finding one, along with the other limited edition versions Oris has launched recently.) So what’s not to like? DESIGN AND FINISH I think the downside of this watch includes the size and height and then the very thing that makes this so easy to see. I’m not a fan of gilt. I said it. It’s 76 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | WINTER 2020 me, not you. I don’t doubt their popularity, and I always take a second look at these. I’m just less formal. My day-to-day watches are low key, usually vintage and don’t attract much attention. Don’t get me wrong, Oris isn’t flaunting the gold on this and uses a subtle edge of bronze around the bezel to contrast with the white 60-minutes ring on the black aluminum insert. Even now, in the low light of my laptop, I can see the time, the applied markers and the bezel’s 60 markers. There’s some play in the bezel on the model I have, but it’s not a deal breaker for me. Still, someone looking at this watch may want to consider how tight they like the action in their bezel. Likewise the chronograph function on a diver seems out of sorts. The signed crown is a screw-down crown and that always makes sense, so I think the absence of the screw-down pushers is more about its design than function. From what I know around my dives at the public pool with my kids, this isn’t really a function I need unless I’m timing the life guard’s rest period. These are functional and aesthetical compromises, and I think it makes sense if you’re not a die-hard diver.