GREUBEL
FORSEY
UNVEILS ITS
SPORTIEST WATCH
BY MICHAEL THOMPSON
The GMT Sport features a new
titanium case topped with an
unusual ovoid bezel.
The GMT Sport’s undulating bezel is
satin-finished and set with Greubel
Forsey’s familiar engraved
‘values’ text.
IF YOU RECALL THE GMT BLACK introduced by Greubel Forsey more than
four years ago, you have some idea where Robert Greubel and Stephen
Forsey started when the pair envisioned what their first sports watch would
look like. In late 2019, Greubel Forsey presented that watch: the GMT Sport,
a multiple timezone watch with a tourbillon, all protected by an ultra-strong
titanium case and framed by an unusual – and quite distinctive– ovoid bezel.
And while many aspects of the GMT Sport movement housed within the
lightweight case are familiar, including the Tourbillon 24 Secondes and the
eye-catching, three-dimensional titanium GMT globe, the movement itself
is new.
Most prominently, two suspended arched bridges now hold the hours and
minutes hands in a central location over the multi-level timekeeping functions
below. The 2015 GMT Black, you might remember, echoed most Greubel
Forsey designs with an off-center dial displaying its hour and minute hands.
CASE AND BEZEL
But perhaps the most notable feature of the GMT Sport at first glance is the
new 45mm case architecture.
Round when viewed from above, the completely new titanium case reveals
an exaggerated arch and ovoid shape when viewed from the side or the front.
The watch’s undulating bezel, which admittedly might take some getting used
to, is satin-finished and set with Greubel Forsey’s familiar engraved ‘values’ text.
Also striking are the lugs, which Greubel Forsey has now fully integrated within
the case in a nod to the enhanced ergonomics required of a sportier watch.
BRIDGES AND HANDS
Directly between the two spans of the suspended arch bridge the wearer
can observe the stepped gear train, seen below it, which follows the bridge’s
curve. In the dial between 10 o’clock and 11 o’clock Greubel Forsey places the
small seconds on a rotating disc. A red hand points to the second time zone
on this display while another red arrow at 3 o’clock keeps the wearer abreast
of the state of the 72-hour chronometric power reserve ensured by two
coaxial barrels in series.
Greubel Forsey on this watch moves the famed 24 Seconds tourbillon from
the 5 o’clock position (its location on the earlier GMT Black) to the 1 o’clock
spot, secured by a bridge finished to match the larger bridge. As a reminder,
this third, hyper-precise Fundamental Invention by Greubel Forsey features a
cage inclined at 25°, completing one full rotation in 24 seconds.
THE GLOBE
The GMT globe, first seen in 2011 and used within the GMT Black in 2015,
here displays the second time zone (as seen on the auxiliary dial just above
at 11 o’clock). When the wearer combines this with the globe’s universal time
display, he or she can read the current time anywhere in the world.
Greubel Forsey has adapted the globe to this new, sportier case with a
somewhat bolder sapphire crystal ring with 24-hour divisions and, most
notably, without the now-familiar case bulge to encompass the globe. Instead,
the globe here is fully placed within the round case.
To set the globe, the wearer will find two pushers located on the left side of
the case. One is used to select the second time zone and the other is used to
sync the local time with the globe. On the caseback, the wearer can read local
time for all longitudes.
With its unusual bezel, the GMT Sport will draw second glances from even
the most seasoned Greubel Forsey admirer. In time however, this mildly
idiosyncratic case and bezel will become yet another indication (among many
over the years) that this brand bows to no predetermined design definitions.
Thus, while the new Greubel Forsey titanium case is undoubtedly tough
enough for active wearers, the brand has redefined the traditional ‘sports
watch’ to bend toward its own ideals – and to fit perfectly within its collections.
For the equally individualistic collectors drawn to the new Greubel Forsey
GMT Sport, the watchmaker will offer it as a limited edition of eleven pieces
with a black or blue rubber strap and a titanium folding clasp.
Price: $500,000.
WINTER 2020 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 47