iW Magazine Winter 2019 | Page 42

BOUTIQUE CHRISTOPHE CLARET Maestro Mamba The Maestro Mamba is a great example of how the brand continues to break horological norms without losing any of the brand’s technical edge. At once scary, playful, and even a bit creepy, the two snake-entwined timepieces exemplify the outre’ nature of the man behind the brand. The once and current supplier of repeating movements for the great houses in watchmaking has gone from a sober supplier to a horological antagonist over the last decade, and these two watches are a perfect examples of Claret’s playful side. The watch’s 42 mm black PVD-treated titanium case is capped by a voluminous sapphire crystal dome and offers an enhanced view of the movement. The snake’s sinuous body can be admired from every angle. Joining the serpents on the dial is the patented Claret large date display at 5 o’clock, composed of two cones – one for the tens on the upper part and the second for the units. These perform a semi-instantaneous jump between midnight and twenty past midnight. Also on the dial is Claret MEMO function appearing between 3 and 4 o’clock. The MEMO is a mechanical reminder intended for absent-minded individuals as well as fans of technical gadgets. In the initial position, (when the owner must do something) a colored stone appears at 6 o’clock on the side face of the MEMO, like the gem set at its top. Once the objective has been met, a simple press on the pusher at 2 o’clock pivots the MEMO function, which will display a diamond on its side face at 6 o’clock to indicate the deed is done. Each night, the MEMO will return to its initial position in a twenty-minute process driven by a semi-instantaneous jump system. The highly complex Maestro watches come in two new black PVD-treated titanium versions respectively fitted with green Mamba and orange Pantherophis snakeskin straps. These two 28-piece limited editions each retail at $96,000. IW RATING Design: 9 (out of 10) Beautiful display of color and dimension. Innovation: 7 Cone date, extended power reserve and the MEMO function show technical sophistication. Finissage: 8 Serpents hand engraved and technical finish on inner components well executed. Legibility: 6 Outlined black hands help view of time. Rarity: 8 28 of each version will be made. Value: 8 Bold collectors will appreciate the tension between playful design and legitimate watchmaking prowess. Overall iW rating: 46 (out of 60) 42 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | WINTER 2019