iW Magazine Winter 2019 | Page 111

DEBUTS COMPLEX CABINOTIERS WATCHES By Michael Thompson Vacheron Constantin in 2019 pays tribute to 18th century Geneva special-order watchmakers called Cabinotiers with a selection of one-of- a-kind complicated watches. Like those historic watchmakers, Vacheron Constantin’s own Cabinotiers department also makes highly complex timepieces devised as unique pieces or in extremely limited editions, each created to demonstrate multiple technical and artisanal skills at the highest levels. One of the new pieces, the new Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Phoenix, is a stunning example of a multi- complication watchmaking and handcrafted finishing in one 47mm gold wristwatch. Specifically focusing on grand complications, the watch includes an impressive array of those high-level indications – including perpetual calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, sky chart, seasons, signs of the zodiac, age and phase of the moon, solstices, sidereal hours and minutes. With a minute repeater and a tourbillon, the watch offers fifteen special functions and indications in all. Driving all of them is Vacheron Constantin’s Caliber 2755, a famed manual-winding movement with a 58-hour power reserve that the company has reserved for particularly complicated offerings. The watch’s case is equally impressive. Vacheron Constantin explains that it pays tribute to two engraving art techniques in particular: pounced ornament – or bas-relief (for the case-band) and fine line engraving (for the bezel and caseback). Prices are upon request. LES CABINOTIERS MINUTE REPEATER TOURBILLON SKY CHART The Vacheron Constantin’s second unique-piece, the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart, echoes the Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 and the Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 created by the company’s Les Cabinotiers department in 2017. The watch’s 45mm white gold case is rimmed by a bezel and lugs set with baguette-cut diamonds. These are echoed on the black dial by baguette-cut diamond hour-markers and a central guilloché pattern that beautifully emphasizes the tourbillon at 6 o’clock. At left, the minute repeater slide is subtle in comparison to the high-carat bezel and lugs, almost as if such a complicated function is expected on any piece of high watchmaking. Turn the watch over to view the namesake sky chart, which depicts the night sky above Geneva. The miniature universe performs one full spin on its axis in 23 hours and 56 minutes, corresponding to sidereal time. This indication is complemented by a display showing sidereal months and cardinal points. These functions are made possible using, once again, Vacheron Constantin’s Caliber 2755. In addition to these new watches, Vacheron Constantin debuted a series of unique Mécaniques Sauvages timepieces, also crafted by the firm’s Les Cabinotiers department, dedicated to wild animals – from savannah to jungle, from the earth to the sky. These combine grand complications) and Artistic Crafts such as enameling and engraving. Prices upon request. Grand Complication Phoenix Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Grisalle Falcon Millary Tourbillon Snake Mysterious Animals Tiger Tourbillon 14 days Lion WINTER 2019 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 111