By Michael Thompson
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas is the brand’s most complete collection of
watches for everyday wear. Within it you’ll find superb chronographs, a
perpetual calendar, straight-ahead time-only models and even an easy-to-read
world timer. And ever since Vacheron Constantin several years ago built into
Overseas a standard selection of interchangeable straps and–most critically– an
excellent steel bracelet for many models, the collection has attracted buyers
who may have considered most other Vacheron Constantin selections too tradi-
tional or too dressy.
For 2018, those buyers will have another watch in Overseas to consider. As
an early debut launched a few months ahead of its full 2018 collection, the new
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time only intensifies the attraction of the
Overseas collection. This new model replaces an earlier Overseas Dual Time, a
watch that was conspicuously missing when Vacheron Constantin re-lunched
the Overseas in 2016. This update boasts a more attractive dial design than we
saw on the earlier example, which also means this watch is easier to read. The
design upgrade is evident on several fronts. This new dual timer makes your
home time quite clear with a triangle-tipped hand. The watch, now 41mm
instead of 42mm, offers far fewer dial distractions. Vacheron Constantin wisely
removed the power reserve indicator and the second subdial that displayed the
home time, clearing the way for an almost instant-read dial. Another attractive
new feature is the fact that Vacheron Constantin now fits the watch with a
brand new automatic movement, Caliber 5110 DT.
RED TIPS
On the steel and red gold models, you’ll see two red-tipped hands that add
instant character to the second time zone and am-pm designation. The nod to
the power of color is not typical for Vacheron Constantin (though you’ll see
brilliant hues on many of its incredible Métier d’Art creations), but the red is
used wisely here. The new blue-dialed Overseas Dual Time offers more muted
white-tipped hands for these indications.
As noted, these hands, and their clear placement on the dial, make it an easy
task to read this dial. The 12-hour display is adjustable via the crown in both
directions (position 1: local time, independent jumping adjustment; position 2:
home time, dragging adjustment of both timezones and minutes) along with a
day/night indication set to home time. The date dial at 6 o’clock is synchronized
with local time and is set by the pusher at 4 o’clock. Vacheron Constantin has
moved the date pusher from its 2 o’clock location on the earlier Overseas Dual
Time, perhaps as the new movement requires.
The watch is easily identifiable as an Overseas thanks to its Maltese Cross-
inspired bezel and its translucent lacquered dial with facetted (and
luminescent) gold hands and hour-markers. Around the back you’ll see the
beautifully finished 22-karat gold oscillating weight adorned with a wind rose.
As with most steel watches in the Overseas collection, the Dual Time arrives
with an interchangeable bracelet and two additional rubber and alligator
leather straps matching the dial color, plus an equally interchangeable stainless
steel folding clasp. This Vacheron Constantin Overseas dual time model is avail-
able in three versions:
• Stainless steel case, blue dial ($24,700)
• Stainless steel case, silver-toned dial ($24,700)
• 18-karat pink gold case, silver-toned dial ($39,500)
78 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | WINTER 2018